New member w/new(to me)canoe

Pics of cracked ribs...need replacing?? Keep in mind I am a novice and I will be using this canoe. I will be going back w.canvas in g.s. green. And will be stripping/sanding/re-varnishing also. I want to do a good job at getting her back original and sound.....would like some expert opinions on the ribs...I only found a few that are cracked(see pics)...do I need to replace them since it is only a couple??
 

Attachments

  • P1130018.JPG
    P1130018.JPG
    160 KB · Views: 509
  • P1130016.JPG
    P1130016.JPG
    160.5 KB · Views: 528
  • P1130015.JPG
    P1130015.JPG
    156.5 KB · Views: 516
  • P1130014.JPG
    P1130014.JPG
    156 KB · Views: 527
I would not replace ribs that are split with the grain. I would replace them if the crack goes accross the grain. You certainly could replace a split if you wanted to. I usually find a couple broken ribs after stripping and sanding. replace one at a time. it's easy to do.
 
Squeeze some Tite-Bond III in the splits and put some spring clamps on them is what I'd do.
The cracked one can be replaced, repaired, or left alone. If it is on the side of the canoe....I'd leave it alone
 
Would like to order some good canvas and filler and gs green paint......best places to order from????
 
I started sanding the hull to try to get down to bare wood(lots of residue left over from fiberglass removal)so I can treat hull with a linseed oil/min spirit. Im using a random orb sander w/60 grit and as all of yall are prob aware of the sandpaper gummed up pretty bad. About to head to Lowes to get some heavier grit paper....any other options out there for me besides heavier paper?
 
I think I'd try a heat gun and scrapers. Be very careful and go slow, wear gloves. My concern is that with the sandpaper you might take of way too much and damage the planking. Just my two cents.
Denis
 
While you have the hull stripped you might want to look into bleaching the inside to even out the contrasts. If you use the search engine on this forum there has been lots of discussion regarding beach and produces available.
Again -just my two cents.
Denis
 
Denis is spot on in his concern about a power tool taking too much wood, not so much of the resin. Been there, done that -- won't do it again.

You may be able to use mineral spirits as a solvent to soften the residual epoxy (or polyester) resin, and then scrape most of it off with a putty knife or wallpaper scraper. Work slowly, be patient, and wear appropriate breathing apparatus. The heat gun is much less nasty.
 
Back
Top