1966 OT square stern restoration- looking for photos and info

[floydvoid]

I just picked up a flat stern old town. Build record is '66, '67 with sponsons, but they were missing. Transom is not attached, I was given a transom but it does not seem to fit the shape of the hull. I am also missing the deck, the support blocks for the transom, seats and mast step for the sailing rig.
It has the keelson and ribs that terminate under the mid point- its a big deep boat.

My questions-

1. What did the deck look like? Who has a photo?

2. What was the transom thickness and was it mahogany typically?

3. Does someone have a photo of the shape of the support braces all around the transom?

4. It has 2 3/4 planks- not specified on build record- was this size used as standard on these boats in the 60s?

 

[Benson Gray]

The pictures in the threads below should get you started. Someone who has one may be able to offer more detailed answers. Narrow planking was common in this era. Good luck,

Benson



http://www.wcha.org/forums/index.php?threads/16267/
http://www.wcha.org/forums/index.php?threads/2283/
http://www.wcha.org/forums/index.php?threads/4586/
http://www.wcha.org/forums/index.php?threads/16014/
http://www.wcha.org/forums/index.php?threads/14108/

 

[Shari Gnolek]

I am the owner of the 1961 18' square stern sponson canoe that Benson mentions in http://www.wcha.org/forums/index.php?threads/16014/.
You can also see more images of it here: http://www.wcha.org/forums/index.php?threads/old-town-with-sponsons-serial-number-7180-18.15860/

2. What was the transom thickness and was it mahogany typically?

The transom on mine is mahogany and is just over 1 inch thick (~ 1 1/16 inches).

3. Does someone have a photo of the shape of the support braces all around the transom?

You can see the support braces in the threads mentioned above. I can measure the braces on mine if you want specifics.

4. It has 2 3/4 planks- not specified on build record- was this size used as standard on these boats in the 60s?

The planks on mine are 3 3/4 inches wide.

1. What did the deck look like? Who has a photo?

The deck on mine is small, only 13 inches long at it's longest point. You can see photos of it in the threads above, but again, I'd be glad to measure the profile and thickness of it if that would be helpful.

Mine also has a keelson and ribs that terminate under the mid point (and a full length keel), but at one point had oars locks so it wasn't set up for sailing.

If you'd like more details just shoot me a PM and I can measure what you need.

Good luck!

 

[floydvoid]

Shari, I sent you a PM, I think. Let me know if it went through.

Looking at the transom parts I have remaining, the top and the bottom but not the middle strip, and looking at the attachment point to the hull, I have some work to do. The hull is crispy and rotted all along the curve. I don't have much of a transom to take a pattern off of in hope of bending a new stern rib, but I may be able to extrapolate .

How to people deal with repairing a transom? There are so many bends and curves!

My thought was to make a pattern of the shape on thick plywood, then fit that back from the stern onto good wood, and secure it into place. Kind of like a station form to hold the shape.

Then I would bend some kind of replacement rib to replace the rotted one while the shape is kept with the "false transom"

I would probably need to make a second transom pattern to bend the rib over to get the shape right.

I think I'd have to leave the false transom until the real one is secure.

 

[Shari Gnolek]

Got it, and just replied!

I am pretty sure that the middle strip was something extra to help hold a motor, not original. The transom itself is two pieces though.

The hull is crispy and rotted all along the curve.

So was/is mine. That last rib flares quite a bit; is flat along one side and extra wide at the top. A while back I spoke with Island Falls Canoe (https://www.islandfallscanoe.com/old-town-parts-and-materials.aspx). They supply genuine Old Town Canoe parts and if given the serial number they might be able to provide a correctly sized/formed replacement last rib (as an option).

 

[Dave Osborn]

I’ve restored 4-5 square sterns. They have all had white oak transoms.
I have a 1944 15’er in the shop right now.

 

[Rollin Thurlow]

The bottom of the boat is presently quite distorted. It should have just a hint of a curve at the bottom of the transom, almost flat. You'll need to force it back into what looks like the proper shape and then make the transom to fit.
A cardboard template will give the inside shape of the transom but of course the outside shape is a bit larger. The original transom would be one piece which calls for a lot of shaping. You can make it with a inside and outside piece and glue them together. Either way, its a big job. The inside section has to have the edges beveled to match the changing shape of the curve of the transom. I would suggest make a test transom with something that is easy to shape like a glued up pine transom. You'll learn a lot getting that one to fit and save yourself a lot of work when you're making the real one.
The pictures are from several different boats, but the details are the same.

 

[floydvoid]

Rollin, is that a fresh stern rib bent and in place in picture one? (labeled transom012) How did you make a replacement with the proper shape?
Replacing that rib without the original form may be difficult, while maintaining the original shape. Everything could self-destruct if I am not careful.

I did notice the changing bevel on the old transom, that was sort of the least of my worries I think- I like the idea of two piece and making a pine practice transom.

I am hoping that a tracing of Shari's transom can give me a good pattern- not sure if her boat will be similar to mine just yet. Otherwise I mocked up the remaining parts of mine, see the pictures.
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