Restoration details for 1953 Old Town Square Stern (row boat)

[Boatnut]

One of my springtime projects will be the restoration/rebuild of my 12’ Square Stern. I am in need of some of the construction details especially with regard to the stern section of the boat. Attached is a photo of my project. As you can see, the previous owner, who has since passed away, did a wonderful of building a new transom.
Questions that I have are:
How is the transom fastened to the hull?, i.e. is it attached to the ends of the keelson, stems and planking or do these structural parts attach to the sides of the transom?
Does the transom have a drain plug?
Does the seat in the stern have knees attaching it to the sides of the hull like the two forward seats? My boat has no sign of these while the catalog photo has them.
Was the exterior of the transom painted or varnished?
Any information and especially any pictures that would help me complete this project would be greatly appreciated.
I have searched the Forum and the internet and only details that I have found for this particular model are the 1953 catalog description and photo (also attached). My model is the one on top.
One peculiarity in the latter photo is that the oarlocks are located forward versus aft of the middle seat. Any comments on why this is the case would be appreciated. I can understand where occasionally the rower would row from the bow seat, but the more typical place for the rower would seem to be midships. Or, perhaps, the location these means that the rower would be facing forward?
Again, any information would be appreciated.
Thank you, Matt Lutkus

 

[Benson Gray]

The information and pictures at the link below may help. The transom is screwed to the keelson and rails so the canvas can attach directly to the transom with no planking visible. Drain plugs were not standard but are commonly added. The stern seat did not have knees like the forward seats in 1953. These were common in the older versions of this boat. The transom was varnished on both sides. The oarlock location is a personal preference. The catalog picture you attached appears to be from 1951. This page from the 1953 catalog is attached below showing no knees on the stern seat and the oarlocks mounted in the usual position for the middle seat. Let me know if this doesn't answer your questions. Good luck with the project,

Benson

Looking for info on 1960 Old Town Boat

Hi folks, I'm new to the site, just ended up here trying to find out more about a boat I'm restoring. It's ~16' Old Town Boat, the square-sterned Sport boat I believe. The serial number on the stem reads 0596 16. I'm hoping somebody out there can at least confirm if that's the right build...

www.wcha.org

 

[Boatnut]

Thanks very much Benson. These pictures of the 14’er and your responses are very helpful.

What is confusing is the way that, as shown in the picture of my boat, the stems on the port and starboard sides protrude aft beyond the point where the transom attaches to the hull. I’m hoping that I don’t need to notch the new transom to fit the transom to the hull. Are the handles on the transom original? If so, were these bronze? Did the 12 footer have the Old Town decal on the sides?
Also, do you happen to have the dimensions of the tool box that was below the stern seat. The brackets are there but the tool box is long since gone. Another question: Do you know the length of the oars that would have come with this boat? Or, would this have varied depending on what the purchaser wanted?
And finally, in searching the barn for the various parts and pieces to my boat, I located the swivel oarlocks shown below. There are not any markings on the oarlocks or sockets. Do these look to you like they match what would have been on my boat? I won’t know if the screw holes match until spring - the tarp on my boat is blanketed with snow.

 

[Dave Osborn]

I can answer a couple questions.
The oar locks were likely original to the canoe. I’ve done a couple square stern boats and a half a dozen or more square stern canoes. They have all had the patented swivel locks like you have.
As far as oar length goes, I contact Shaw and Tenny with length, and distance between the oar locks and they will build you a fine pair with leathers. While kinda “cashy”, a classic boat like this deserves this kind of oars.
I think your boat may have been shortened a little. What you are calling stems are actually seat rails. They should not extend past the transom, but terminate at the transom.
Here are a few photos. One has sponsons.

 

[Benson Gray]

I agree with Dave about your transom and oar locks. It appears that the person who cut off the old transom took some of the planking and last rib as well. The pictures at the first link below may help. Bronze handles on the transom are not unusual but I don't know if yours are original. The side decals on this model were first shown in the 1952 catalog. It is not clear if yours shipped with these originally but it might have. The second link below shows one with a tool box but I don't know the exact dimensions. These probably varied so I would encourage you to pick some dimensions that look good to you. The third link below has the Shaw & Tenney oar length formula web page. The last link below has more information about Patent Swivel Oar Locks or Rowlocks. Have fun,

Benson

404 | WoodenCanoeHeritage

www.woodencanoe.org

1932 Old Town Square Stern 16 ft."Yacht Tender" model serial number help

Hello, We have recently completed a rather grueling 13 month restoration on the boat described above. This is a sort of half-canoe half-skiff model, made of red cedar planked on white cedar frames. The keelson, side stringers, and gunnel rails are spruce, I think, old wood fading being what it...

www.wcha.org

How to Size Your Oars

To determine the correct length oar for your boat measure the distance between the port and starboard oar sockets. Then apply the Shaw and Tenney oar length formula to determine the oar length that will provide the correct 7:18 leverage ratio. This length will provide an oar where 7/25 the...

www.shawandtenney.com

Patent Swivel Oar Locks or Rowlocks

Dan's comment at https://www.wcha.org/forums/index.php?threads/kennebec-joy-boy.17541/page-2#post-90488 and our recent conversation about oar locks has lead me off down another research rabbit hole. It turns out that there have been thousands of patents over the years for oar locks and...

www.wcha.org

 

[Boatnut]

Thank you Dave. The images and your description are very helpful. I have a Shaw and Tenny kayak paddle, given to me as a retirement gift. They are definitely in a class of their own.
I have been studying the images of your twelve footer. Would you happen to have a picture of the knee that is attached to the transom at the stem on the sole? Unfortunately, I do not have the old one to use a a template. Thanks again.

 

[Dave Osborn]

Nut,
Here are some photos of a 16’ with sponsons that will give you an idea if you expand the image.

 

[Boatnut]

Thanks. These images will also be good once I start work in the Spring. I think I will start a notebook with all pictures to keep nearby once I begin each task.To clarify, in my previous message I meant to ask about the knee where it attaches to the keelson (not the stem) at the transom. I really appreciate all your help. Matt

 

[Benson Gray]

I meant to ask about the knee where it attaches to the keelson (not the stem) at the transom.

See the link at https://static.wixstatic.com/media/...308_a51eac80c06f49f390681ccfb98b1e63~mv2.jpeg for one example.

Benson

 

[Boatnut]

Thanks Benson. Do you know of a commercial supplier of the bronze plates that protect the transom for gouges from outboard motors? I could not find any on my search of the web last night. Matt

 

[Benson Gray]

Do you know of a commercial supplier of the bronze plates that protect the transom for gouges from outboard motors?

I don't, but a good sheet metal shop could probably make you something without too much trouble.

Benson

 

[Dave Osborn]

I’ve seen some ugly rubber transom savers that are sold commercially. Stay away from those.
Here is what I’ve done. The wood plaque on the outside, which can be replaced if needed.
The Wilcox&Crittenden circular things(can’t think of the term) go on the inside, lined with thick leather protects the inside of the transom. Not sure where you can buy them. I find them on eBay.

 

[Gil Cramer]

The sport boat I just finished had plywood on both the outside and inside of the transom to protect the main transom. They were replaced with 4 mm Okoume stained mahogany. This works and doesn't look obtrusive.

As for the transom, the seat rails butt up against the transom with no fasteners. The transom/ keelson knee has at least one brass bolt thru the keelson and one thru the transom. There are also one or two long screws thru the transom into that knee, and thru the hull.

The knees from the transom to the rails have one bolt thru the transom thru the knee, and one bolt thru the rails and thru the knee. There are also screws into the knee. The square nut on the bolt was inletted into the knee in every case.

The planking ended halfway onto the transom to allow for the canvas to be tucked under and bedded flush with the transom. These were notorious leakers as soon as the bedding compound dried. Dave used the Thompson technique of extending the canvas around the edge of the transom and covering the joint with 1/4" or so wood. Obviously he knows about the leakage. I have recommended for customers to thin varnish and pour it into the transom area to stop the leak if they want the boat original.

The sport boat I finished has a Heavyweight Dacron covering which was glued to the planking slightly forward of the transom with Blue River aircraft glue. The sport boat has a lighter construction than your boat, but the transom details are similar.

It is for sale and should show up with photos( yea, I figured out how to use a camera) soon.

 

[Dave Osborn]

Here is how I do the flush method canvas at the transom.
“Cheater” staples hold the canvas at the transom. Stretch canvas as you would normally on the whole boat. Trim the canvas short at the transom so that 1/2” can be filed underneath and flush with the transom.
Use a flexible boat caulk (SikaFlex) in a syringe and apply liberally under the fold. Then staple through the fold.
Remove the cheater staples that were holding the stretch. All done. Haven’t had any leakers yet.

 

[Dave Osborn]

Matt
I’m currently working on an Old Town square stern padding canoe.
The fittings are the same as your boat.
Here are photos of the transom knee and how it attaches to the transom and keelson. Top screw and bottom screw are 12-24 brass flat head machine screws. The others are #12 brass flat head wood screws.

 

[Boatnut]

Benson, Gil and Dave, Thanks again for all of the information and images. These were tremendously helpful. I just finished my wood/canvas canoe “winter” project so I am just now beginning to partially dismantle the rowboat to replace the unrepairable sections. The one last question that I have has to do with the bevel on the transom. The new transom that came with my boat purchase is beveled 25 degrees at its base perhaps having to do with the tumblesome shape of the hull. I need to determine whether the slightly larger side of the transom is at very back or forward of the stern. (Image attached). Any advice on this? Thanks again.

 

[Todd F]

Boatnut, very interested in any progress you have made. Recently picked up a square stern and will post pics shortly.

 

[Boatnut]

Todd, progress has been slow but I am learning quite a bit along the way. The gunwales, keelson, keel and
deck needed to be replaced and the new transom had yet to be completed, so it made sense to dismantle the boat and work on the two halves separately. (The ribs don’t extend the full width of the boat) By doing this, I am able to remove the planking and tack in the new cedar planks by myself since. I had to replace sections of planks at the stern since a previous owner had taken the ends of the planking off when the transom was removed. I’ve replaced about half of the planking and am in the process of steaming and bending about ten of the cedar ribs.

I had a local apprentice shop make new knees, deck and gunwales for me. I was not satisfied with their work on the gunwales so I ended up starting anew and milling and shaping those myself. I was able to get my hands on some nice clear Ash for the gunwales and am pretty satisfied with the end result. I have not done any router work previously so I am having a local boat shop do the routing on the transom. I am staining and varnishing as I go. I am using Minwax stain on the inside of the new planks to match the old planks and Epifane Rapidcoat on everything. Since I do not have the space to set up a jig for recanvasing, I am going to use a Dacron-like polyester fabric from Aeroligt. I used this fabric I on a canoe I re-covered last year and am pleased with the result.

I have been purchasing the wood and other supplies from Northwoods Canoe in Atkinson, Maine. I’ve relied heavily on Forum contributors, books, the internet and the WoodenBoat’s Mastering Skills videos especially the series with Rollin Thurlow.

During the next few weeks, I plan to complete the preparation of the hull planking before I re-cover the boat. My plan is to cover the hull with epoxy (West Systems 105 resin with 206 slow hardener) to add some strength to the 70 year old planking and create a smooth surface .for the fabric covering. I would appreciate hearing from any of the Forum contributors about on the use of epoxy here.

I’m attaching photos showing what I described above. If you or anyone else have suggestions or comments on my project, please chime in.
Best regards, Matt Lutkus, aka, BOATNUT.

 

[Todd F]

Wow. You are certainly getting after it!

 

[MGC]

Matt, I am curious why you would opt to coat the hull with epoxy? You mention adding strength and smoothness but I do not personally associate either of those properties with this application. Smoothness is achieved by carpentry and faring and toughness is inherent in the flexibility of the wood, ribs and canvass. Epoxy will change the surface hardness of the cedar, but it will do nothing to alter it's modulus. In fact, I would expect an adverse affect. Making the hull brittle does not sound like a great proposition. Having owned (and still owning) several wooden boats, I have never thought that they lacked strength or toughness.
If I were working on your boat I would finish it much the same way as I would a canoe. I would finish the woodwork and fare it. Then I would give it several coats of the concoction I use on hulls, a warmed blend of turpentine, linseed oil and mineral spirits before canvasing it with either a number 6 or number 8 canvas...filled with traditional filler.
In my opinion, the Dacron is simply not a tough enough material for a boat. Even for a canoe there is a very divided opinion about it's suitability.