PVC Pipe for steam bending ribs for 17 Foot Otca

CReelSr

Curious about Wooden Canoes
Just finished fabricating the steam-bending pipe for the ribs steam bending pipe.jpg
Any thoughts/comments will be appreciated.

My prayers are with all of you who have been affected by the storm.
 
Steam temperatures will soften pvc pipe -- enough to cause some sagging. You might want to put a support along the underside of the pipe, at least in the middle of the run. Though with a 4" pipe (I think that's what you have) that is fairly short, you might be ok as is.
 
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I've just used 1x4 or 1x6 no 2 pine screwed together with drywall screws. It may insulate and retain the heat better, it doesn't sag, and you can take it apart and use it for something else when you're done. I've had PVC pipe sag and actually bind the pieces inside.

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I used pvc pipe once in the past, which is how I know it sags -- but I got it onto a board supporting most of its length, and got that job done. The pipe did not collapse -- it just became a bit flabby. CReelSr's rig looks well thought-out, but I think some bottom support may be needed.

One further thought -- I would not try to stop the open end with a plastic cap -- I think you'd have difficulty removing it -- stuffing a towel or rag in the opening should do the trick.
 
Many thanks for your thoughts and ideas. I have some OSB with Foil film on one side that I will build an enclosure for the PVC tube and then fill the box with spray foam for insulation. Photos will follow showing each step. I usually overbuild things. While PVC provides secure watertight, non corrosive/rusting fittings, the idea of sagging PVC is potentially a safety issue, I had not thought through. Thanks again.
 
Also, consider the size if the steam inlet. Mine is exhaust pipe and radiator hose. the exhaust pipe fits over a steel can 5 gal. and the radiator hose goes from the exhaust flex pipe to a camper sewer hose. Stowable, flexible, cheap, efficient. I like large volumes of steam under no pressure. Or low pressure.
 
Dave,

It might be good idea to post photos of this the next time you have it set up. I like "Stowable, flexible,cheap, and efficient.
 
Like Dave O said; I use a piece of black abs for gunwale ends, its stiffer and takes the heat better. plug the ends with a rag, 15 min later you're in business...
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jsd5HapWpE&feature=plcp
Above is a link to one of two (crude) youtube vids I posted on bending stems. Outwales are the same except the sewer hose is accordianed out to the needed length. The wire holds shape and I cover with towels to hold in the heat for the length of it. The videos are a few years old but you'll get the idea. Also, I think I can find an old still photo to attach here. The second video btw shows the actual bending of the elm stem.
 

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Crude but functional

This is about as basic as it gets. 4" ABS pipe, 90 degree elbow to collect steam from kettle, in this case, rags stuffed in far end to hold steam. boil 12 cups of water and bend outwale.

For ribs and other such things I use a coupler and add a shorter length of pipe then an end cap and add steam the same way. When I need to remove whatever from the chamber I just tap the cap off with a chunk of wood and bend away.

Eventually I will build something better if I continue with this venture but for now, this works just fine.
 

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With PVC you can only do one rib at a time. Probably take 10-15 minutes for Cedar. When I bend .30 Maple for banjo rims it is 20 minutes. Never had the PVC collapse or sag to the point of being unusable. I will do 3 strips of maple, one right after the other, with the PVC subjected to steam for an hour. For ribs because I want to do 10 or more at a time I built a wood steam box, pine 8"x10"x6'. More important is how much steam you can generate to keep your steam chamber full.
 
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