Need help with moulds

mferraguti

Curious about Wooden Canoes
On the strongback, my stems sit about 2.5 inches higher than the next to last station mould it runs up against. I checked and double-checked all offsets and cutting which all seem to be correct. Being a first-timer I want assurance that all is well before proceeding, although all may NOT be well.

Thank you!

Mike
Fort Lauderdale, FL
 
hi mike, is there any way you can post a picture of the problem? can you log onto the chat room to discuss this?
 
This is a straight cut & paste from the canoecraft web forum FAQ's

"Q When I cut out the bow and stern sections and place them on the strongback they are 5 in. higher than the station molds.The station molds call for a 2 in. space from the sheer line - should this be more or am I doing something wrong?

A The baseline that becomes the strongback line is common to all stations - you must have added the 2" on to the sheer line of each individual station mold instead of making it a common line for all molds. It is a common line - this is why we suggest drawing the molds on one sheet of paper to avoid this confusion."

Is this on the mark?
 
Mould problem

So from what I understand, a common strongback line is established from the highest offset point (usually from the stem/bow mould). This is a line common for ALL moulds. So once the highest offset is charted on a mould, a horizontal line is drawn toward the centerline, 5" to the right of it, and then up to this common line established from the highest offset point (again usually from stem/bow mould). Is this correct? If so, I goofed. I established a strongback line on each mould. So the strongbacks on all of them is two inches. Am I correct in this assessing this mistake?

Thank you!
 
yah, thats it. say you draw a line 2" down from the tip of your stem then the line at the next station mold toward the center might be 5" to the rail then 6" then 7" then start to become similar as you run along the rail throught the center sections of the boat then become the same figures as you run toward the opposite end. picture a canoe upside down resting on the tips of the bows, if you measured every foot in toward the center from the ground up to the rail that would give you the common line for measuring.(of course you can then add any equal amount to that to raise each station mold. say 2" to each. you then continue and measure up for the bottom of the hull:D
 
molds

Bob,

For some reason I didn't get it. You have the correct email. Could you re-send? Sorry about this. And thanks again for your persistent help with this issue!! I must confess, I'm still confused. I took pics and will get them to you this afternoon. Hopefully, they will help.

Mike
 
mike from you pictures that IS the problem you need to raise each mold station to reflect the rise of the sheerline then you will be ok. i think you could screw extentions on you current molds instead of cutting new ones
 
as long as you make room for the inwale to clear the strongback near the stem shape lets say 2" then you move back to the next mold toward the center and add enough to keep the same relationship of the inwale bend
 
I'm kinda of out of the loop but, instead of raising all the middle stations, why not lower the stem stations? Just be sure to tapper/narrow your strongback so the canoe clears it.

On my projects, rather then use the plan "baseline", I lower it about 5 inches, 1) to reduce the height of the canoe when working one it, and 2) so it doesn't take as much plywood to make the stations.

Dan
 
Confuse ol' Mike is right! Maybe I'll just extend an invitation to Ted Moores to come to Ft. Laud!
 
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