Maintaining Old Town 1952 Canvas Canoe

MNPaddle

New Member
Greetings! Recently inherited a 1952 Old Town Canvas canoe and am interested in taking some maintenance steps but am not sure where to start. It does float, and floats with two people in the boat, so it doesn't appear to have any major flaws right off the bat. Up until yesterday it hadn't been on the water since the 1980s and was kept in a dry garage.

Nevertheless, I'm curious about:

Repainting the canvas - is that easy/hard/best way to approach that.
Any internal varnish maintenance guidance.
Proper storage as it pertains to how it should sit in the garage.

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Congratulations MN. That appears to be in decent condition and as you note, in need of some basic maintenance.
Before going too much farther you might want confirm that it is canvased. In the closeup image of the bow, it looks like there is fiberglass. This would explain the absence of stem bands.
If it is glassed, then painting it would entail sanding it with a reasonably medium to fine sandpaper (220 is what I might use) using an oscillating sander, cleaning it with alcohol and tack clothing it before applying a few coats of marine topside paint. I always use Epifanes but there are plenty of other choices including Rust oleum. If it is canvased, the steps would be about the same except you would need to be far more careful when you sand it. You do not want to sand through or even into the filler.
For the inside, since you are going to (presumably) leave the outside shell (glass or canvas) in place, you will not be able to strip it. If the canvas were off, I would take the opportunity to strip and bleach, but keeping the glass/canvas on limits your options to careful and thorough sanding. Once it has been sanded enough to remove any loose varnish, you may then clean up the mess (shop vac, tack cloths etc.) before applying a few thinned coats of varnish. I would put progressively less thinned varnish on up a final un-thinned coat or two. I like Epifanes varnish for this but there are other good ones. Be sure you are using a marine spar varnish, not a urethane. Save the urethane for inside furniture.
WRT storage, I like to keep my boats right-side up. I generally hang them if I have room. If I have them on horses, right side up....hogged hulls annoy me. If you boat is glassed, then the shape is set so how you store it is less critical.
 
Congratulations MN. That appears to be in decent condition and as you note, in need of some basic maintenance.
Before going too much farther you might want confirm that it is canvased. In the closeup image of the bow, it looks like there is fiberglass. This would explain the absence of stem bands.
If it is glassed, then painting it would entail sanding it with a reasonably medium to fine sandpaper (220 is what I might use) using an oscillating sander, cleaning it with alcohol and tack clothing it before applying a few coats of marine topside paint. I always use Epifanes but there are plenty of other choices including Rust oleum. If it is canvased, the steps would be about the same except you would need to be far more careful when you sand it. You do not want to sand through or even into the filler.
For the inside, since you are going to (presumably) leave the outside shell (glass or canvas) in place, you will not be able to strip it. If the canvas were off, I would take the opportunity to strip and bleach, but keeping the glass/canvas on limits your options to careful and thorough sanding. Once it has been sanded enough to remove any loose varnish, you may then clean up the mess (shop vac, tack cloths etc.) before applying a few thinned coats of varnish. I would put progressively less thinned varnish on up a final un-thinned coat or two. I like Epifanes varnish for this but there are other good ones. Be sure you are using a marine spar varnish, not a urethane. Save the urethane for inside furniture.
WRT storage, I like to keep my boats right-side up. I generally hang them if I have room. If I have them on horses, right side up....hogged hulls annoy me. If you boat is glassed, then the shape is set so how you store it is less critical.
It is canvassed, with best I can tell, no real damage to the canvass. I believe the bow was damaged at some point so the first aid done on that end (both actually) is makeshift materials. Not sure what exactly though.
 
Canvas is preferred and superior. You should consider adding stem bands but when you do, be careful not to cause leaks. When you buy the stem bands, get Dolphinite and stem screws.
I like that it does not have a keel...that's one less thing to worry about leaking and it will handle better without one. There's no hiding your steering stroke in a keel-less canoe.
Benson might know if the filler recipe contained lead in 1952. If the filler is leaded, it can last almost forever with proper care. I suppose I should know that...it still did in 1947.
 
Benson might know if the filler recipe contained lead in 1952.

Yes, a variety of Old Town and other filler formulas are listed at the link below.

Benson



 
Thank you Benson for sharing that.
So if the canvas on this particular canoe is original it would contain lead. I suspect it was recanvased at some point considering how the stems are finished and the now missing keel. It did not leave Old Town that way.
A filler takeaway is that extra precautions should be taken when sanding leaded filler....wear a respirator and work in a well ventilated area ... Now they tell me..
 
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