Greenwood Canoe

[Scot T]

Just scored my second Greenwood canoe. Like the other it's the 16' Prospector Special Model. That includes half ribs, 38" beam, 14" depth and mahogany trim. This one came with the original bill of sale. $459.00 in 1974...wow, have things changed!

This one is in pretty good condition with a couple issues that I'll have to attend to. The gunnels have suffered a thump about a meter from the stem, both are cracked. I'm thinking I might be able to fix the cracks so I don't have to replace the entire piece. I've put more than a few mahogany guitar necks back together after unfortunate accidents so I'm hoping the same technique works on canoe parts. Anyone have any thoughts?

And there are two cracked ribs that I can find so far. As well as the regular strip, recanvas and varnish.

For some reason I love Greenwood canoes. Maybe partly because they were built here on the West Coast but I also love the way they paddle, their stability, not to mention the quality of the workmanship.

This one is even more special. I popped it in the local lake on the way home to see how it floats. It's got this cute little fountian right in the middle. Now, how many can say they have that in their canoe?...I cannot figure out where the water is supposed to drain out though . Maybe the drain is plugged, I'll look into it.

I'll post some photos as soon as I can.

 

[Scot T]

Hopefully the photos will come through. It's the big red canoe beside my 16' stripper.

 

[Douglas Ingram]

Nice find, Scott.

Fixing a gunnel break is basically a short piece scraphed in at each end. Make it long enough to replace any crappy sections. Clamp a strong, straight piece of wood to hold the canoe side straight, cut out the break, prep the scarph joint surface, then make a piece to match the cut out section. don't even try and prep the repair piece first and try to match the gunnel repair to that!

The reason for the clamped on piece is so that your repair matches the original wood. It was straight before it became a canoe part, so repair it as a straight piece. When your glue has set, release the clamps and the the whole piece takes the proper, graceful, curve that it is intended to have.

It will be as strong as new. Getting the cosmetics to match the old wood is the bigger challenge.