First restore - Bastien Huron

[Dave Wermuth]

Hi

I used the same wood. I would not use 'glass. And I chiseled out to one half the depth. A replacement rib is pretty simple task. I'd do that unless there is a real good reason to keep the broken rib. My backside rib repairs were on 3/8" thick ribs. I thought of doing it on 5/16 but it seemed pretty thin. No reason you can't use a stronger wood I suppose.

 

[Tedp]

Thanks for the ideas, Dave,
I'm going to try a underneath repair. Figure a repair can be done in two hours compared to forming, steaming, bending and putting in a new rib.
Also thinking that a new rib might stand out a bit as all the others have a lot of history - dents, scratches, the odd gouge and all those little black marks from the old tacks.
So it's a router and a small piece of left-over cedar fencing then.

thanks again,
Ted

 

[Tedp]

red or white?

while i'm waiting for my wrist casts to come off so i can get back to work on the huron, i was looking at all the w/c related hardware fixings that i've accumulated. and i know of a beater at a good price as well

but my only source of white cedar planking is really expensive cad $3.50 for 3" per linear foot. red cedar fencing is quite cheap in comparison so for the difference i could buy a planer and do red cedar.

so what's the difference between red and white cedar for planking?

thanks ted

 

[Scot T]

I don't use much white cedar (mostly because it's rather rare here on the west coast) but the main difference for planking that I notice (other than White Cedar bending like a dream) is that the red cedar is more brittle and tends to split easier when fastening.

I find that if I use material a bit off the guarter (vertical grain) and drill pilot holes before fastening I can all but totally eliminate the splits. A little more work but considering "Time is Money" I think one can come out on top as Western Red Cedar is usually a fair bit cheaper that White.

 

[Dave Wermuth]

Here in Michigan Northern White Cedar that is clear is hard to find but runs around one to three dollars per board foot. I am lucky to have about a thousand board feet. I'm about an hour west of Sarnia, depending on where you are I might be able to help with white.

red is brittle.

 

[Tedp]

good news on the red cedar. thank scot.
dave, that's a really appreciated offer. i'm only about a 9 hour drive from you so it's doable. but the last time i tried to cross the border with wood poles, they were confiscated - a big no way. not sure about non-firewood looking planks so am writing to Canada customs for a written reply.

cheers ted

 

[davelanthier]

Red Cedar comes in different shades. The lighter Red Cedar will color match the old White Cedar of the canoe better than new White Cedar will. Pre-drill the Red Cedar planking tack holes then use a steam iron to soften and shape the plank in place before clinching.

 

[Dave Wermuth]

The steam iron is a very good suggestion. Also you can wrap a wet terry cloth towel on or around the plank. The good kind from the linen closet. Not one of those old thrown out ones that you wash the car with. then put ther iron to it and itd drives steam into the wood and makes it bendable. Nine hours is a long way to drive for a few boards. There must be some closer.

 

[Gary Willoughby]

I have never used red cedar but also have been told that you need to pre drill. Old Town must have use thousands of board feet in there canoes ,How did they do it? Aso would air dried red cedar be better?

 

[Benson Gray]

Old Town must have use thousands of board feet in there canoes ,How did they do it? Also would air dried red cedar be better?

Old Town purchased most of their wood with the bark still on it. They then cut, stacked, and air dried it themselves. My understanding is that air dried wood is less britle than anything which has been through a kiln.

Benson

 

[Tedp]

It's canvas time!

I'm back - my wrists have finally but nicely healed and I'm ready to canvas.
Here's what I'm thinking so would appreciate good and bad comments.
The Huron is 14.5 feet long and 32" across the gunnels at the yoke.
The interior has now had 3 coats of Epifanes varnish.

One coat of boiled linseed oil on the outside.
Wait a day or two.
Buy 18feet of #10 canvas. (less? more?)

To canvas:
tie off one clamp to a tree about 40 inches off the ground
use a 2x4 X and my truck's hitch for the other end about 40 inches off the ground.
put about 100 pounds of whatever spaced evenly inside the length of the canoe. (more? less?)

Relax, take my time and start stapling.
Staple the canvas right above the top of the planks. The planks are 3/8 inch below the top of the ribs.

When happy, apply a coat of 2% clear zinc napthanate to the canvas to reduce the possibility of mold.
Think about what filler to use after the zinc napthanate dries.

Sounds good?

cheers Ted

 

[Fitz]

Sounds Good

Ted:

Good to see you are getting to the canvas stage. I have yet to canvas a Huron, but there is BIG one in the yard here that needs doing. So your mileage may differ. Get some canvas pullers or upholstery clamps and pull the canvas over the rail. The staple ideally should go through the very top of the planking, into the rib, and into the inwale. Use 9/16's monel or stainless.

The canvas pullers or pliers, or upholstery clamps should help pull any wrinkles out. "Clothes pins" also help at the ends.

Check for any Finger Cutters (staples that come through the ribs below the inwale) before sanding.