Bill Greenwood Prospector - Advice on repairs for a new owner

[dhornby]

Hello;

I just purchased a 16' Bill Greenwood Prospector for what I'm lead to believe is a steal ($600 CAD)

Problem is, I've never owned a cedar and canvas canoe before, despite always loving them, and this thing definitely needs some work before it can go back in the water.

The biggest problem I see is that the canvas is chipping at the gunnels and has become delaminated front and rear, and the metal guards on the keel have come loose as well.

Pictures of the whole thing here.

A couple questions:

As someone who is relatively handy in general, who's done some woodworking, fiberglassing and similar stuff, is fixing the canvas something I can do myself, or am I going to destroy this boat if I don't know what I'm doing? The wood generally seems intact, with the exception of some bits around the keel and a single cracked rib that I've found.

If this is best left to an expert, can anyone recommend someone on Vancouver Island, or at least in the lower mainland of British Columbia that knows more about these and can get it floating again?

Any help would be much appreciated.

 

[Gary]

Hi , Congratulations nice looking canoe! Your best bet would be to get a copy of Mike Elliott's book "This Old Canoe" It explains everything in detail with pictures on the basics of canoe restoration. Better yet look Mike up as he resides in BC and operates Kettle River Canoe who can do the repairs your asking about.
From the pictures, your canoe is in need of a re-canvassing. You might duct tape up along the gunnels and get a couple of paddles in to try it out but water is also your enemy as it induces rot in the wood. While you're getting it re-canvassed, its the best time to do any rib or planking repairs as well. Once the canvas is off you'll be able to better asses any damage to these areas.
I can't see the decks and stem tips as these are common areas for rot as well.
You can probably do the work needed but it does require space, lots of time and some special tools such as canvas stretchers, and special vice grips to pull the canvas. This site will offer lots of help, with many who have been doing this for eons!
My only other comment will be that be careful, working on these old wooden canoes is addictive and you will rarely ever do just one!
Hope this helps, Gary

 

[MGC]

In addition to the canvas, your canoe is due for a cleanup on the inside and a few coats of good quality spar varnish.

 

[dhornby]

I'll definitely look up Mike Elliott's books, I found his shop when I was first looking for information but he's a bit of a drive for repairs for me-I'll definitely go his way if I wind up in over my head though.

I've found the Orca Boats online store as well, and they've got lots of great information and materials for a DIY re-canvassing. I might give putting on new canvas myself a shot this winter depending on how clear I can get my shop, otherwise it'll have to wait for next summer when I can get a tent up. Are there any other stores I should be looking at for parts and materials?

 

[Michael Grace]

Mike Elliott's business is now Ghostpine Canoe & Paddle, run by Claude Delisle:

Ghostpine Canoe and Paddle | WoodenCanoeHeritage

www.woodencanoe.org

Claude is a great guy!

 

[Worth Gretter]

Another option is Dacron instead of canvas. It is heat shrunk with an iron instead of stretched, and that can be easy. It is also lighter in weight.
There is lots of info if you search this website. In particular,
https://forums.wcha.org/threads/anybody-ever-use-non-standard-canvas-thicknesses.19113/post-102428
That link takes you to my input, but the rest of the thread has more good info.