Yankee restoration

[Skiboy127]

I recently acquired an OT yankee serial 92332. This project is gonna be slow going but I have a few questions before I start.
First construction wise I can’t tell what the build sheet says the decks were made of the word looks like “Buick” but that can’t be right…
Second I need to repair/replace the stern stem, is this white cedar like the rest of the ribs and deck or ash like the thwarts look to be?
Third is the biggest stumper to me, there are three holes in the inwhales forward of the bow seat on each side and one larger hole behind the bow thwart on each side that look similarly weathered to the rest of the boat but I have no clue what they would have been?
Finally I have pretty good access to wood but have no clue where to look for boat tools (specifically a clinching tool) and hardware like copper deck nails
Thanks for the advise in advance

 

[Dave Wermuth]

The Buick is Birch. No idea on the holes unless for a sailing rig?

 

[Dave Wermuth]

Oh, the stem would be ash.

 

[Skiboy127]

The Buick is Birch. No idea on the holes unless for a sailing rig?

I’ll get a better photo of the holes could be rigging for a sail but there is no mast step evidence in the hull… I don’t have the seats so can’t say for sure

 

[Benson Gray]

where to look for boat tools (specifically a clinching tool) and hardware like copper deck nails

The links below are a good source for a clinching iron, bronze ring nails, and other supplies. The extra holes may have been from someone moving the thwart and seats around to adjust the trim. Good luck with the project,

Benson

Tools - Northwoods Canoe Co.

Rollin Thurlow's Northwoods Canoe Company constructs, repairs and restores wooden and canvas canoes, offers wood canoe building classes, cedar and plywoodstrip plans, paddle kits, books, videos, and canoe building materials.

www.wooden-canoes.com

Hardware - Northwoods Canoe Co.

Rollin Thurlow's Northwoods Canoe Company constructs, repairs and restores wooden and canvas canoes, offers wood canoe building classes, cedar and plywoodstrip plans, paddle kits, books, videos, and canoe building materials.

www.wooden-canoes.com

 

[Skiboy127]

is there a recommended way to “restore” the serial number? The stern stamps is more viable than the front but it’s pretty faint and if I replace the whole stem it will be gone and I’m not sure the bow will be legible after finishing as I can barely make it out now

 

[Benson Gray]

is there a recommended way to “restore” the serial number?

There are a variety of solutions to this problem. One option is to slice off the old numbers and glue them to the top of the new stem. Another is to simply get a set of number stamps and add the old number to the new stem. I've also seen an engraved plate with the serial number added to the top of the new stem or elsewhere on the canoe. You can be creative since there isn't a standard 'recommended way.'

Benson

 

[Dave Osborn]

Definitely plug the holes in the inwales. Left open they create a weak spot.

 

[Dan Lindberg]

Could the holes be past seat locations? (my best guess without seeing it all)
and more remote, a mount for a motor. (I'd expect this to be closer to the ends though)

 

[Skiboy127]

Hard to see even I. The “better” photos but I don’t think so, the ones aft of the forward thwart might have been for a solo paddling thwart if you reversed the bow and stern but i would have put it closer to center if I was doing that. They are about the right size for a carriage bolt but don’t have any imprint from a previous bolt. The three holes forward of the seat look to be stew holes but do go all the way through. Deck plates for mounting a pulley for sailing hardware makes some sense but there is no other evidence of a sailing rig.

 

[Gil Cramer]

If you are replacing the entire stem, buy it from Jerry or Rollin and have them stamp the number into the new stem.

 

[Worth Gretter]

You may be able to repair the stems by scarfing new wood on the top. If you wind up replacing them, be sure to search this site for advice since you will definitely need to steam bend them. That will require a lot of things. First, a tack puller to get the old ones out. Then a cardboard template of the shape of the hull where you took each stem out. Then you build a form to bend around. You need a steamer, and either a steam box or plastic tubing. And clamps. Be sure you have really straight grain wood as grain runout will cause it to split. Don't bother to do the taper and bevel until you have bent it, because all your work will be wasted if it splits. If you can't bend it successfully, the answer is to laminate it in several layers.
I think you can guess how I know all this!

 

[Skiboy127]

Thanks to all for all the advise and speed of comments, it was over 10 years ago I built a geodesic skin on frame snowshoe explorer and yes I remember the perils of steaming the ash ribs on that boat…. I was thinking of laminating it that’s how I made my last bent shaft paddle but will I get hung up on being period correct in restoration time will tell. Time is the key right now I’m trying to make a plan and understand what I have ahead but I have a few house projects that will come first. The project has been a desire of mine for while but this canoe was a bit of an impulse buy based on location and price. I would love to float her for her 100th birthday in 2027 but I’m not holding my breath that life won’t push that out a bit….

 

[Worth Gretter]

I agree that lamination is not period correct. However, with the bevelled edges on the stem, the laminations won't be visible except near the inner end. You can beat that problem by slitting the piece of wood but stopping where the curve stops. That is, don't slit the last foot or so on the inboard end, where it sits horizontal on the ribs.

 

[Michael Grace]

2027 is your target??? Your canoe looks to be in pretty good condition, and especially with the support of people here and a couple of good books that are available, you should be able to make progress quicker than you may think. If possible, join a local WCHA chapter or reach out to experienced people in your area. About the stems, don't shy aways from steam bending. It's very satisfying to do and it's not difficult with the dimensions required for stems, particularly if you can get air-dried lumber. That said, I agree with an earlier comment that you may not need to install new stems at all. From the limited amount visible in your photo above, it seems that maybe only the tops of the stems need to be replaced. Doing so is straightforward and can produce a strong and repaired serviceable stem.

 

[Skiboy127]

2027 is your target??? Your canoe looks to be in pretty good condition, and especially with the support of people here and a couple of good books that are available, you should be able to make progress quicker than you may think. If possible, join a local WCHA chapter or reach out to experienced people in your area. About the stems, don't shy aways from steam bending. It's very satisfying to do and it's not difficult with the dimensions required for stems, particularly if you can get air-dried lumber. That said, I agree with an earlier comment that you may not need to install new stems at all. From the limited amount visible in your photo above, it seems that maybe only the tops of the stems need to be replaced. Doing so is straightforward and can produce a strong and repaired serviceable stem.

I should note I have 4 kids and a half finished basement so I have to hedge my bets on what the priorities will be but yes I agree if all goes well it should be doable on that timeline, fingers crossed

 

[Skiboy127]

So I have noted the aft stem needs attention, a few deck boards, new seats, new gunnels/outwhales, finish, canvas and paint are all in the works. How do I determain if a rib is cracked enough to replace or just spider cracks? The last 4-5 full ribs look like they may be cracking but the boat feels pretty split considering the aft end is open….

 

[Michael Grace]

You can replace any rib, of course, but why do so unless necessary? Replacement is a bit of work and new ribs are challenging to color match to the old wood. So a truly broken rib - a displaced fracture - should be replaced. Ribs with non-displaced fractures, meaning the two ends are still together, can be made fully serviceable using backside rib repairs (search here and you'll find multiple descriptions on how to do this). Note that the work to do backside rib repairs may be comparable to rib replacement - it's just different and it saves original materials. In the end, which way to go is a matter of opinion. Some restorers may replace any fractured rib; others will lean more toward backside repair.

I'm not sure what a "spider crack" is without seeing it, but true cracks should be repaired. Often you can tell an actual crack because pushing on the hull will cause the wood to flex around the crack. Sometimes crackled old finishes can produce spider-web-like lines on ribs that aren't cracks at all.

In a recent discussion about rib repair a wide variety of solutions were suggested, including working glue into the crack, gluing wood on top of the broken rib, gluing wood to the planking alongside the cracked rib, and more. Working glue into the fracture will likely have little or no effect - it probably won't fully penetrate and in any case, gluing end grain to end grain produces a very weak joint. Adding a layer of wood on top of the fracture will add structural strength, but it will probably be unsightly and may interfere with paddlers and/or gear. Adding wood on top of adjacent planking - I just don't know what this is supposed to do, but it probably won't add much overall strength to the area.

There are quite a few WCHA members including restorers in Wisconsin, so you might find someone nearby who can help you assess issues and find solutions. Eyes-on is always the best way; second best is having the conversation you're having here. Best wishes with your restoration. As you move along, post more photos here for everyone to enjoy your progress.

 

[Skiboy127]

You can replace any rib, of course, but why do so unless necessary? Replacement is a bit of work and new ribs are challenging to color match to the old wood. So a truly broken rib - a displaced fracture - should be replaced. Ribs with non-displaced fractures, meaning the two ends are still together, can be made fully serviceable using backside rib repairs (search here and you'll find multiple descriptions on how to do this). Note that the work to do backside rib repairs may be comparable to rib replacement - it's just different and it saves original materials. In the end, which way to go is a matter of opinion. Some restorers may replace any fractured rib; others will lean more toward backside repair.

I'm not sure what a "spider crack" is without seeing it, but true cracks should be repaired. Often you can tell an actual crack because pushing on the hull will cause the wood to flex around the crack. Sometimes crackled old finishes can produce spider-web-like lines on ribs that aren't cracks at all.

In a recent discussion about rib repair a wide variety of solutions were suggested, including working glue into the crack, gluing wood on top of the broken rib, gluing wood to the planking alongside the cracked rib, and more. Working glue into the fracture will likely have little or no effect - it probably won't fully penetrate and in any case, gluing end grain to end grain produces a very weak joint. Adding a layer of wood on top of the fracture will add structural strength, but it will probably be unsightly and may interfere with paddlers and/or gear. Adding wood on top of adjacent planking - I just don't know what this is supposed to do, but it probably won't add much overall strength to the area.

There are quite a few WCHA members including restorers in Wisconsin, so you might find someone nearby who can help you assess issues and find solutions. Eyes-on is always the best way; second best is having the conversation you're having here. Best wishes with your restoration. As you move along, post more photos here for everyone to enjoy your progress.

Your description of closed non displaced fractures is what I might have. I do not believe that it is finish crackle as the bot was chemically stripped before I aquired it-although that’s kinda the shape of said “spider cracks”. With out an seat or rear deck and the top of the stem missing it hard to say where the movement is but when I squeeze the gunnels there seems to be very little additional movement in the ribs in question. Visually wouldn’t be great but I could sister them with out much interference as they are under and behind the aft seat. Would adding half ribs be an “acceptable” solution? If so how “period correct” would that solution be and am
I making more work by inviting myself to half rib the whole boat for visual symmetry…
I did see on the builders page that Kerr canoes in Florence WI is not to far from me so I may make a trip to buy some quarter sawn white oak and chat with him
Thanks to all for all the advise so far
Plenty more “last questions” are bound to arise….

 

[samb]

My recommendations would to be to get yourself copies of 'This Old Canoe' and 'The Wood and Canvas Canoe'.
Spend a good time reading, learning and thinking, and then come back with questions.