varnishing

Dave Wermuth

Who hid my paddle?
Today i was varnishing a canoe I am building for my sister and brother in law. the first coat was a 50% mix with thinner, the second was 25% and this third coat was 10 ounces varnish and 2 ounces thinner. I'd like to know in general what others do.
1) I use 12 ounces for each coat of varnish for a 16' er. Is that in the ballpark?
2) I use a total of one can of varnish per canoe and It amounts to 4 coats thinned, 3 coats not thinned. Ballpark?
3) How many coats? For me it seems like one or two more coats are needed after I quit. But I'm too cheap to open another can.

I realize that it is very subjective and arbitrary, but opinions/practices of others interests me. I wonder what Old Town and Thompson and Morris and Rushton and the rest did?

Some of the amazing work I've seen looks to me like six or more coats of varnish.

The canoe pictured will get at least one more coat. Thanks for any feedback.

Dave
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I just finished repairs on this Chestnut Bobs Special. Interior: 1 50/50 thinned varnish/mineral spirits coat, then 3 full strength coats. I use McCloskey Man O War semi gloss spar varnish. Not a
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fancy brand name but I've been quite content with the results. I then put on a coat of 50/50 on the exterior planking before going into canvas... which I did today.
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I believe that most would be happy to accept a new canoe with three good coats on it. My Chestnut Fox and Prospector look like they left the factory with two coats.
For most of what I do I typically will put on 4 or 5 including three thinned coats. If there is a 5th or 6th coat when I varnish, it is because I have finished with a matte coat or two to knock back the shine. A second matte coat is sometimes needed to hide holidays.
I do often get into a second can. It's a shame to need one since they tend to skin over if they are opened and reclosed.

From what I understand, Rushton would often put down a first coat (coats?) of shellac. This (if I understand it correctly) was done on rush orders. I'm in the habit of doing this whenever I work on a Rushton. I like the way it looks.
 
Dave, your new build is lovely.
As for varnish, I am trying something different. I am using Jamestown's TotalBoat Wood Filler/Varnish Primer for the first two or three coats. So far, it is only on stems and gunwales, as I wanted to protect them from the stain I was using on the interior ribs and planking. Thus I haven't applied varnish over the primer yet and can't tell you how the final result looks.
I am very interested that you cut the varnish 50/50 for the first coat. I cut my stain 2 parts thinner to 1 part stain but that was so I could wipe it off quickly on the old cedar or leave it on longer on the lighter new cedar, and that has worked well for matching the colors.
 
I tell people to not go cheap on paint, varnish, and stripper.
That said, I’ve always bucked the trend to thin varnish. I feel that the first coat of full strength out of the can varnish on raw cedar soaks well into the wood. I like a bit of a high build finish. The minimum number of coats is four at full strength. I use Epifanes Wood Gloss, no sand for the first three coats, then sand and add at least one additional coat of Epifanes Cleat Gloss or Matte.
I say, don’t settle! If you think it needs another coat or two, do it. Don’t let $40 bucks be the hindering factor for what satisfies the look for you.
Same with paint. I see so many restored canoes that make me think another coat or two of paint with some sanding would make it look so much better.
 
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