A Plan Of Action.

michaelrandrews

Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes
I am about to refinish and recanvas a 16’ 1963 OTCA. I have read both of the Stelmok books and I think I am ready to get into my project.

I would appreciate the critique of the more experienced canoe restorers, as this is my first project.

The Plan

1. Fill cooler with ice and beer
2. Drink a beer after every step
3. Outwales seats thwarts and yoke removed
4. Canvas already removed
Ribs and planks have already been repaired

Should I remove the decks?

5. Reclinch all tacks (all ribs and planks are intact) swell hammer blossoms
6. Strip all old varnish
7. Address all staining
8. Sand, Sand, Sand interior and fare exterior (what grit?)
9. First coat gloss varnish thinned 50/50
10. Sand varnish (what grit?)
11. Second coat varnish thinned 25/75
12. Boiled linseed oil exterior until saturated, wipe excess (should I thin the oil?)
13. Let dry two weeks
14. Sand varnish
15. Third coat varnish 100%
16. Sand
17. Coat of satin varnish 100%
18. Install refinished decks, outwales, seats, thwarts, yoke
19. Upright recanvas, fill and fare per Stelmok book
20. Six weeks to cure
21. Trim canvas

Should I paint the underside of the outwales?

22. Two coats of primer wet sanded between (what grit)
23. Three coats high gloss enamel wet sanded between
24. Final coat satin varnish interior
25. Let dry four weeks
26. Put cooler of beer in canoe
27. Launch canoe in Echo Lake, California.

That’s the plan I hope I didn’t forget anything. Your input will be greatly appreciated

Michael
 
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One Beer?!?!

You are not drinking nearly enough beers. They should precede, follow, or accompany nearly all steps .

You have much to learn, but there are many excellent teachers here. I am not one of them, I just hate to see beer left all alone in a cold, dark cooler.

Welcome to the adventure!

Brian
 
Looks like a good plan to me, especially the libations, but be sure to use a good honest brew and not that watered down so called light stuff!

You might want to do a search on this forum about the use of linseed oil on the hull. There is some evidence that the stuff is actually a good food for mildew. On my last canoe I just used a wash coat of thinned vanish instead. However, I've previously used boiled linseed oil and haven't had a problem so long as I used canvas treated with a mildewcide.

Every one has their own methods that work for them and what you are proposing should work just fine. I personally prefer to paint the hull before trimming the canvas. The extra canvas prevents paint from going where you don't want it, especially if you are spraying. Instead of carrying the paint on to the underside of the outwale, I varnish the outwale thoroughly. Keep in mind this is just a matter of my personal preference.

Is there a reason you are thinking about removing the decks? I would think all you need to remove are the outwales.

I would also reinstall the seats and thwarts before applying the canvas. Otherwise hull distortion might occur in the process of stretching the canvas on.

That said, keep in mind that I'm a builder as opposed to a restorer. Others may be of more help to you.

By the way, how about posting a few pictures of the project?

Have fun and stay sober!
 
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You need to add a chair or 2 and allow plenty of time at each step for sitting in them while you look at and think about the canoe.

Dan
 
I would suggest that you do the stripping after the seats and decks are removed, but before the canvas is removed. It's not uncommon to find broken ribs or planking after the stripping process that you could not see before. Also the clinching will be easier to see and more effective if its been stripped. Keeping the canvas on will offer the Strippie (you) a bit of protection as you lean aganist the boat.
The "More Beer" suggestion is the the most important change, esp at this stage of the game!
 
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