Tapered ribs

[Benson Gray]

This thread has become a good summary of the options so let me add one more. I wanted to keep as much original wood as possible in canoe shown at https://www.wcha.org/forums/index.php?threads/11487/ so Rollin Thurlow used the technique described below with excellent results.

Benson

 

[Jeff block]

Do these two ribs that have breaks all the way through qualify for back side repairs? The 3rd , would epoxy work to fill in the divots? Thanks for all the information!

 

[Michael Grace]

Hi Jeff,

It's difficult to make a decision based upon photos alone. In person you can really see the extent of the crack/break, the shape of the hull at the break site, etc., and make a wise decision about each rib. That said, the middle rib in your first photo looks like a great candidate. In the next two photos, the breaks look more problematic, but maybe??? So back to your first photo - the rib on the left is going to take a bit more epoxy and imagination...

 

[Jeff block]

Thanks for your help!

 

[Dave Osborn]

Often when I do a backside repair, I will use a syringe to push epoxy into the crack to kinda stabilize it prior to chiseling the pocket. I also use a backer if needed to get the shape back and allow the epoxy to cure. the reason I’ve done this is because once you start chiseling the crack can separate.
I use syringes from Jamestown for a lot of
“ precision application” of epoxy, titebond, and bedding compound.

 

[Rollin Thurlow]

While I am a strong advocate of giving every problem its proper amount of staring time, it can be overdone and this is what happens to you.

Back splice repair...I think for most repairs of this type, I think it's less destructive to the hull and makes a stronger, neater, splice to remove the rib, make a long tapered splice off the boat and then reinstall the rib.

 

[Todd F]

I appreciate and respect the extensive knowledge on this site..I also love the distinct personalities we encounter.....