Shop Shots

Yes, the front doors are north. Not ideal, but limited by geography. I don't have any ventilation beyond the windows/doors.
 
The windows in my paint room face south. Great light when painting and varnishing. I had a local electrician run 220 from my house to the barn. About 30 yards. He put a box in the barn , but one with enough room for about 20 breakers. I had him only put in 2 110 outlets and one 220. Then after I had it inspected I ran the rest of the outlets and breakers. Like Dan said just use the correct size wiring , you can do it it's not to bad . Just have an electrician do the main box for you.
 
As Dave stated above, I cringe like other professional electricians ( Master NH, ME) about homeowners doing there own electrical work , especially when they know nothing about it as stated. 20 amp circuits for sure. Add some receptacles on the ceiling for cordreels as they are extremely convenient. Spend some money on some great LED lighting. I like 6K lighting myself as its close to daylight. Very doubtful you will need more than a 100A service which is a minimum today by code unless you ever plan to use a welding machine.
 
Here's mine: 30x23'. Well insulated with a mini-split heat pump. Lean-to off back. Standing headroom on 2nd floor for wood storage.
 

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Thanks Dan. I lifted the lines of the Atkinson Traveler drawings. Traveler got built in the shop later as a first retirement project.
 
Alright, another question to see how folks deal with the issue of stretching canvas. Considering anchor points to attach the come-alongs to...what sort of force is generated and what sort of anchors are used? I plan on 6x6 lumber in the corners of the shop and have thought of bolting in a plate with an attachment point. Any advice and pictures? I alos have plenty of trees but prefer to do it in the future workshop. Thanks
 
Todd F,
My setup includes one 3/8" drop in anchor set into my concrete wall on either end of my garage for eye bolts. Not really a lot of force is needed. I'd guess 200 - 300 lbs of tension would be plenty and some do it will little to none by hand in demonstrations.
Zack
 
Hey Todd, my shop is made with 6x6 fir beams and posts and I use these as anchors for stretching canvas when re-canvasing canoes. I've never had a problem and I usually add four 50lb bags of sand in the canoe for a vertical stretch. Good luck with the build, be sure to show some pictures.
Gary
 
A 4x4 outside an open window on one end and a beam constructed of two 2x6 spanning across an overhead door on the other end of the building.
 

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Todd: My "shop" is the center aisle of a Pennsylvania bank barn. It's where the hay wagons were brought in for unloading into the two adjacent hay mows. Pretty hot in summer, cold in winter, and I have to share space with my residential building business tools and supplies.

I suspend a traditional canvas envelope; fixed at one end, and tensioned with a come-along at the other. The anchor points are 8x8 vertical structural posts of the barn skeleton. I used (2) 80# bags of dry concrete mix, a 4x8x16" concrete block, and a few bricks (just cuz that's all the heavy stuff I had on hand)- all loaded in on top of a 10' 1x12 pine plank to distribute the weight evenly (with a blanket underneath to soften the contact!). Stretching the canvas evenly near the stems required just a little relaxing of the tension in order to stretch 'up' as well as to the stems.
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Seasons Greetings from Itchydog Boatworks! A few pics of our shop decorated for the Holidays including the flying canoe. My partner Andy hung it there a few years ago and I never knew the real meaning of it until the last issue of Wooden Canoe. Also featured is the Frankensteamer, our electric steam box. Happy Holidays to All!
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