Rib Ends - fill or replace?

[canoonow]

Hello,
I'm a relatively new member (1+ year), and am getting into the rebuilding my 1st canoe- a 1946 Penn Yan Rainbow. I'd like the perspective of those with more experience than me. When do you draw the line between replacing a rib tip vs using a wood filler? How much strength is in a rib tip that has been repaired using a wood epoxy putty? Will it hold a ring nail?

I've attached a few pics of some of my rip tips. In my inexperienced opinion, I am thinking that I can fill the first three ribs, but pics of rib 4 and rib 5 should probably be replaced.

Last question (for now), if wood epoxy putty is an acceptable repair- any recommendations on brands?

Thanks all,
John

 

[Dave Osborn]

With rib tips that have a simple split, I will often glue and clamp them to bring the split back together.
With rib tips like yours I would scarf splice in new tips. I think you would be disappointed in the look of rib tips that have been filled with some substance or goobered with epoxy.

Now is the time to do it right.... Once your restoration is complete, it's too late.

Some guys use a multi tool saw, some chisel an angle, others have little jigs made to cut an angle on the offending rib. I use a belt sander to grind an angle about 2" long on the outside of the rib. Then make a mating piece from white cedar that fits the rib and exoxy and clamp. The scarf angle will be hidden for the most part if you grind your angle from the outside. It is quick and easy.
Here are some photos from a Morris Canoe that had all but one tip replaced.


There are several ways to scarf in new tips. A search of the forum with key words rib tips scarf splice, etc. should bring up procedures for completing a new tip.

 

[Dave Wermuth]

What DavieO said. and I might add: I use a chisel to cut my rib tip splices. If the thickness of the stock and the length of the splice are equal then the angle is easy to make using a bench jack. I cut the rib splice first and back it up with a piece of wood behind it if I need to. then I mark the length of the splice on the work piece and push the chisel from my mark to the far edge at the bench jack. Easier to do than to describe and almost as fast. Only takes a minute or two as long as the chisel is sharp. I don't hammer the chisel, just push it through the wood.

 

[David Satter]

Yes what Dave And Dave said is the best way. It's easy once you do a few. I've had good luck using Titebond III and sometimes I clench a tack or two through the splice. predrill. Dave Satter 3 Daves can't be wrong

 

[Michael Grace]

For rib tops like those in your first three photos, you might try something in between "wood filler" and splicing on new tips. Clean up the gaps with a chisel, and glue (epoxy) in tight-fitting pieces of fresh cedar. Trim everything fair after epoxy setup, and then drill and nail. Splicing on new rib tops is required sometimes, but in cases like your first few rib examples, I find this "insert" approach quicker and easier, and it works like a charm. If you want it to be the best possible, apply some stain to the new wood to make it match the old; otherwise the end grain will really show a big difference between old and new cedar.