Narrower (13"x31") Minetta?

[jenshen]

I just got a Peterborough, according to the previous owner; the canoe was restored by Langford Canoe in Ontario 22 years ago. There is no sign or logo on the decks, but the bow stem is stamped with 1815 3660. From the canoe identification data in Dragonfly Canoe Work website, it should be a Minetta with dimension 15'x12"x33"; however, this canoe is 15'x13"x31". The line of the canoe, as is, does not please my eyes. If it is a true Minetta, can I just install a longer thwart and make the beam 33"? It appears that even I make the beam 33", the depth from the top of the gunwales to the plank at the midship is still 13"? Any info or input is appreciated. Thanks.

Jen

 

[davelanthier]

For the width I suspect that you are improperly measuring across the top of the canoe at it's widest rafher than at the widest point of the tumblehome. For the depth the bottom has probably rounded out over time, Very common.

 

[jenshen]

Thanks for the explanation. The widest point at the gunwale is 31", and the max width below gunwale is about 31 3/4". I am suspecting 31" gunwale width makes the line of the canoe look awkward. If the gunwale is opened up to 33", the max width below the gunwale become 32.5"; this seems to lead to n a more continuous / graceful line.

Could any of Minietta owners out there measure the max gunwale width so that I can use to fix mine without deviating too much from a true Minetta? Thanks.

Jen

 

[MGC]

Could any of Minietta owners out there measure the max gunwale width so that I can use to fix mine without deviating too much from a true Minetta? Thanks.

Jen

Jen,
These canoes are not that precise in their details. There is some variability boat to boat and as already noted, how the measurements are done.
If you want to improve the lines a bit by putting in a new thwart, simply do it and move on. Keep the old thwart if you ever want to pull it back in.
From your first photo's we can see what you are referring to and (to me) it makes sense to push the rail out a bit.
I have a Chestnut that has the same "problem". It's not that uncommon.

 

[davelanthier]

The seats and thwart appear to be original. This most likely would have been a 3rd grade Chestnut/ Peterborough. They often had no manufacturers decals. What has happened is that the canoe hull bottom has rounded out which lessens the width [ tumblehome ] dimentions. If you widen the width you will cause the hull bottom to hog inward, Not a good thing. Suggest you enjoy it as is.

 

[jenshen]

Since I enjoy the line of a canoe as much as paddling it, I plan to relax the beam a bit with caution so that the hull bottom does not hog in (very interesting thought). Thanks for all the input.

 

[Douglas Ingram]

Peterborough and Chestnut generally rounded up their numbers, which can account for some of the discrepancy. While you can put in a longer thwart, this will also affect the width were the seats are, as well as the amount of rocker.

This is how it increases rocker: the gunnels are fixed length. If you pull them into the center of the canoe, narrowing it, you straighten the gunnels making them "longer". Widening the canoe bends them more, "shortening" then. Shorter gunnels, end point to end point, will pull the ends of the canoe and they can only go up.

Whether or no this is an issue for you I can't say, but it will happen. Though, for the amounts that you are going to do it, the effect will not be very significant.

 

[Greg Nolan]

Widening the canoe [with a longer thwart] bends them more, "shortening" then. Shorter gunnels, end point to end point, will pull the ends of the canoe and they can only go up.

The "shorter" gunwales, end point to end point, will pull the ends of the canoe -- but the ends could well go down instead of up. And because the ribs will be pushed into a flatter arc under the wider thwart (tending to raise the center of the ribs) it is likely that the center of the bottom of the canoe will be raised, creating a force that will lower the ends, not raise them, inducing a hogged keel line (as Dave Lanthier suggests) rather than one with rocker.

If your canoe already has some rocker and/or a shallow arch bottom, you may increase the rocker. But if your canoe has a flat bottom and a straight keel line, you might not like what you get with a longer thwart.

I would first try widening the canoe with just a straight stick, because it would then be easy to go back to the original thwart if needs be.