How to secure bow and stern ends of keel?

[Ray Kepler]

Hi, wondering if anyone can suggest a way to attach a keel to the hull of an OT Guide canoe. I’ve got a 1983 model that I’m “restoring” and have most of the keel screwed and glued on. It’s the bow and stern ends that I’m confused about. There’s no obvious place, especially with the stem in the way.
Any info would be appreciated.

 

[samb]

I'm sure there is a proper answer, but my thought would be to put the last screws from the outside into the stem.

 

[Rob Stevens]

Hmm, I wouldn't have "glued it". The screws are enough mechanical fastening to hold the keel in place. Traditionally, it is sealed with bedding compound, or even flexible caulking. Glueing the keel in place may come back to haunt you as the wooden structural components need to flex and give a little, including for expansion due to moisture.

The keel should taper before meeting the stem, so just screw it through the hull into the inside portion of the stem. In the case of external stems, the keel with blend into that, being held in place by screws from the inside.

 

[David Satter]

Looks like that's clear glass cloth on the outside?? Yes just bedding compound and screws , but if it's already glued, three screws from the outside into the inside stem each end, usually three different lengths as the keel tapers. Skinny ones.

 

[Ray Kepler]

I should have mentioned that I used marine grade adhesive sealant, which is supposed to be flexible. I’m hoping this’ll be OK.
I’m wondering if my problem is that the keel I made is too long. I guess I should’ve taken better notes when I ripped the older one off.

 

[Benson Gray]

Did your canoe have outside stems? The keel can just be an extension of these if you have them.

Benson

 

[Ray Kepler]

Hi Benson,
I don’t think so.
I decided to drill into the ribs and stem from the outside. Any idea how to get rid of the caulking!? Min spirits aren’t doing it.

 

[Rollin Thurlow]

Denaturation alcohol IF its not cured. If its cured the only way to let it cure some more and chisel or scrape it off .

 

[Ray Kepler]

Yeah, not cured and a pain in the butt. Card scraper kinda works.

 

[David Satter]

if it's wet, cut a piece of thin plastic , from a cup or oj container like 3 inches square fold and crease 90 degrees . scoop up the squeeze out between the hull/canvas and keel with it. wiping it off the plastic every few inches and continue. It gets ALL of the sealant off. Works great. Don't touch the sealant before just let it squeeze out from the keel installation.

 

[Ray Kepler]

Thanks, Dave. I’ll try that next time. It says there’s a 24 hour cure time, but it’s been two days and it’s still tacky. I’ve scraped off everything I could and I’m hoping that I can stain it once it’s dry.

 

[Ray Kepler]

So I’ve got about three extra feet of keel brass protection and about 8 feet of unprotected keel. Any thoughts on wether I should use it?

 

[Ray Kepler]

Another question: How should I attach the Old Town name plate to the deck? I’ve got the two screws but should I also use epoxy or some other glue?

 

[Howie]

Definitely just the screws. That way years from now the next restorer has a chance of reusing it!

 

[Ray Kepler]

I pity the next restorer!