I'm not sure just what wood is in a couple of boats, Pennyan cartoppers, 14 footers XLH's one stock and the other more heavily built.
Picture one with the leather sewn onto the seat brace is one boat. Is the brace ash and what is seat insert?
Pictures 2, 3 and 4 are of the other boat, (2) seat brace (cracked and with screws), (3) outwale, inwale and transom brace and (4) ribs. I think the short ribs are the same wood as the seats and gunwales and possibly ash, not sure.
Boat 2 has four keel size runs of stringers which run from the back of the boat to about half way up. Two are inside the boat and two on the bottom. All run parallel to the keel. What are those called? Are the bottom pair bilge keels and the top bilge keelsons?
Question 2:
Would there be any appreciable difference in strength to use white oak in place of ash on the outwales and inwales on a 12 and 14 foot cartopper?
Question 3:
A 12 foot cartopper covered with kevlar has many cracked ribs and many other problems so is being repaired to usable shape not restored.
Most of the ribs have small right angle to the grain cracks across the rib mostly where the ribs curve up to the sides. Would stringers (? bilge stringers) a foot or 18 inches on either side of the keel about the size of the keel help stiffen the bottom enough to be worthwhile? What could be done to help out the weakened bottom of the boat from flexing? Stringer on the inside/outside?
Question 4:
The braces that ran between the inwale and transom on the 12 footer and on the 14 footer were cracked at the bends. The 12 footer had it's braces replaced several years ago with oak or ash laminated braces and held up over the years with a 5hp engine (I think the boat is rated for 3hp.) I've seen other cartoppers with cracked or broken transom braces.
Would it be better to use laminated in place of bent braces for more strength? If laminated would be better is there any advantage to Tightbond III over resorcinol?
Question 5:
Generally in finished repairs is there any advantage of resorcinol over Tightbond III as far as strength (discounting ease of use)?
Picture one with the leather sewn onto the seat brace is one boat. Is the brace ash and what is seat insert?
Pictures 2, 3 and 4 are of the other boat, (2) seat brace (cracked and with screws), (3) outwale, inwale and transom brace and (4) ribs. I think the short ribs are the same wood as the seats and gunwales and possibly ash, not sure.
Boat 2 has four keel size runs of stringers which run from the back of the boat to about half way up. Two are inside the boat and two on the bottom. All run parallel to the keel. What are those called? Are the bottom pair bilge keels and the top bilge keelsons?
Question 2:
Would there be any appreciable difference in strength to use white oak in place of ash on the outwales and inwales on a 12 and 14 foot cartopper?
Question 3:
A 12 foot cartopper covered with kevlar has many cracked ribs and many other problems so is being repaired to usable shape not restored.
Most of the ribs have small right angle to the grain cracks across the rib mostly where the ribs curve up to the sides. Would stringers (? bilge stringers) a foot or 18 inches on either side of the keel about the size of the keel help stiffen the bottom enough to be worthwhile? What could be done to help out the weakened bottom of the boat from flexing? Stringer on the inside/outside?
Question 4:
The braces that ran between the inwale and transom on the 12 footer and on the 14 footer were cracked at the bends. The 12 footer had it's braces replaced several years ago with oak or ash laminated braces and held up over the years with a 5hp engine (I think the boat is rated for 3hp.) I've seen other cartoppers with cracked or broken transom braces.
Would it be better to use laminated in place of bent braces for more strength? If laminated would be better is there any advantage to Tightbond III over resorcinol?
Question 5:
Generally in finished repairs is there any advantage of resorcinol over Tightbond III as far as strength (discounting ease of use)?
