Atkinson buldge in the hull

[Ezra Smith]

Hi all,

First of all I want to extend my gratitude to this community for all of the help and guidance that it has provided me and others, often without ever starting a post because of the wealth of knowledge that is already hidden here.

You guys helped me restore an OT OTCA a couple of years ago, and the last 18 months you have helped me with a brand new Atkinson Traveler! This last weekend my dad and I took the canvas pliers and staples to the hull, and now the filler is drying. Man, working with a new boat is totally different than restoring one, a lot less headaches and problem solving, but a lot of time spent milling all of the pieces.

My reason for posting is based on what might or might not be an issue. After the thwarts had been on for a month or two we noticed that the bottom beneath the thwarts (not the one in the middle) and progressing toward the ends was flatter than the area in the middle of the boat. This was noticable enough that when looking down the garboard the middle would rise up like it had a hump and would afterward lower as it approached the other end. I realize that photos would be really helpful, and will post them after I track them down, but I was wondering if anyone has any experience with this? To see if the yoke was responsible I took it off and saw that the curve appeared unchanged. This boat has half ribs (at the recommended lengths and boiled prior to installation). Is this something that will resolve itself and I should not worry about it?

Thanks in advance.
Ezra

 

[Howie]

As you say, pictures would help. Are you saying that, with the canoe positioned right-side-up, its center bulges downward? That the keel (if it has a keel) isn't in a straight line? What happens when the center thwart is removed?
And I'm assuming you're talking about a canoe that has been already been varnished inside & canvassed so you can't selectively re-steam the wood. Nor can you take the tacks out of the ribs in this bulge area and re-tack them while applying pressure to remove the bulge.
About the only thing I can think that might help is time: Position the canoe upright on its keel on a flat surface and use sand bags or something to keep it in this position. Then put weights inside the canoe (bags of cat litter, sand, water softener, etc) and leave it there undisturbed over the winter or longer. Maybe the wood will take a set over time.

 

[Ezra Smith]

Your description of the problem sounds accurate. There will be no keel and I have varnished the outside but not the inside yet. It is canvased now, but here are the photos from when I noticed the problem. When I removed the center thwart it did not relax the bulge, but I also did not leave it off for very long (10min or so).

 

[Howie]

Not sure I'd worry about it. If anyone asks say the canoe has high rocker: http://www.oldtowncanoe.com/canoes/canoe_anatomy/rocker/
Maybe just as well you don't intend to use a keel. Canoe ought to turn on a dime though!

 

[Ezra Smith]

Ok, I was feeling like it would not really be an issue. And I guess that if the rocker is too much I could always try what you suggested. Before I varnish the inside though, have you ever heard of someone steaming a pot of water underneath the canoe (interior facing down) after the canvas is on? I was thinking I might try that while putting some weights on the bulge.

 

[Howie]

Guess that might help with the bulge. But to get any significant permanent bending you'd need to over bend it due to spring-back, and that'd be tough to. Plus you'd need to wait a long time to give the canvas time to shed whatever moisture it collected. And remember, it's not like the wood 'wants' to be in the shape you want it to be in. There's a reason it's got a belly. Not sure what that reason is mind you, but I suspect the only way to get it 'right' would be to remove all the tacks & ring nails from those ribs, steam the hell out of the ribs, and retack while forcing the outside to be flat. Can't do that with the canvas in place though...
I'd be curious to see what other members think.

 

[MGC]

I'd be curious to see what other members think.

It looks to me like the ship has sailed...the hump will be really hard to do anything about. The half ribs are tacked in..it's going to hold that shape.
Look at the upside...it's going to be really hard to hog that canoe.

How were the ribs held down to the form while the they were steamed. My guess is that the bulge happened before it was planked. It doesn't take much to get canoe ribs to stand proud of the form....

In all seriousness, it's not likely to be very noticeable when it's being paddled.

 

[Fitz]

I once tried to straighten out an old 20 foot hogged Huron. I bolted on a strongback, and dumped boiling water inside and out, and left it out in the rain for 4 to 6 weeks. When I removed the strongback, it went right back to being its hogged old self.

 

[Ezra Smith]

Jeez, sorry to hear about the Huron. Glad though that I will never have that problem with this boat! I used a strongback during the construction, however, that came off right before we planked it. I would think that the strongback would be more than adequate, since it was a 2x4 that was straight to begin with. Oh well, as you say the ship has sailed (or it will by the summer anyway).

 

[MGC]

I once tried to straighten out an old 20 foot hogged Huron. I bolted on a strongback, and dumped boiling water inside and out, and left it out in the rain for 4 to 6 weeks. When I removed the strongback, it went right back to being its hogged old self.

My wife keeps trying to repair the bulge in my hull by forcing me to eat more vegetables and fruits....doesn't seem to be doing the trick...
How much kale and broccoli can one person abide? Where was quinoa when we were learning how to be hippies? Euell Gibbons spoke of Grape Nuts and asparagus but not spelt or farro. I may need to let her know about the boiling water and leaving me out in the rain (snow) for a few weeks.
Or possibly like the Huron, it's not worth the effort Too far gone.....