16 foot vs. 17 foot OT HW weight differences?

chris pearson

Michigan Canoe Nut
OK, I know what the cateloges say, what is the real weight difference bewteen a 16 foot OT and a 17 foot? Same canvas.
 
My experience is the length is not the only, or perhaps even the major weight factor. The OT 50# shows how much difference wood thickness makes.
Each time the canoe is re-finished some wood comes off in the sanding. What kind of canvas, how much filler, which kind of filler, how many coats of paint?
I have my 17 ft OT that has never been refinished yet is 30 pounds overweight. I have 15 and 16 ft canoes at identical weights.
I've given up trying to predict the weight of a canoe until it is done and on the scale.
 
Just trying to get a general idea.

Well, I'm confused. The catalogs can give you a general idea of about five pounds but I guess that isn't the answer you want. The catalog weight estimates increased over time but the relative differences remained consistent between the 16 and 17 foot lengths of the HW model. Wooden canoes have always had huge variations in weight as Treewater described. Your mileage may vary...

Benson
 
Canoe weight is much the major factor for me due to the need to portage. It is not just the carry but that lift to the shoulders that is tough. I've weighed every canoe I took out.
As to what effects the weight I think length is a factor but consider the displacement factor. A sixteen foot canoe carries perhaps 500 lb comfortably. The fourteen foot canoe can carry the same thing but one will notice the shape of the hull is broader. The Old Town trapper is a case of a short canoe that carries a lot of weight due to its broad almost beaver tail shape. Bottom line is, it take a certain amount of wood to get a certain amount of displacement whether it is in length or width.
I have used the factory specs just as a guide and a relative guide at that. One thing is for sure, a given hull with Dacron is lighter than the same hull with canvas and filler.
Not to beat this subject to death, when I select a canoe to rebuild for the next year's journey I look at length, width, type of material, (Spruce vs Oak or Mahogany) shape of hull, thickness, spacing, and size of ribs, then seats. A lot can be gained by skimping on filler and paint and I guess that is the differences most often found in factory canoes.
I will admit, all other things being equal, for the same shape hull, finish and materials, a foot shorter would be lighter. How much? my guess, 5 to 8 lb. Someone can cut a foot out of a finished canoe and weigh it.
Does that help?
 
One thing is certain the canoe weighs more on the last portage than on the first. Dry, my 1917 OT 15' 50 pounder weighs 61 pounds. The 1946 OT 15' 50 pounder weighs 68 pounds.'

R.C. Copy of P1240002.JPG
 
As I said, same canvas, trim, everything. No Benson, I don't believe the catalog weight listings! I dont think it's just the foot differance in length that adds weight, perhaps a tad more volume from a 16 foot HW to a 17 foot HW.
 
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