when to replace vs. repair rib ends

[Blackfly]

It looks obvious now that the inner gunwales were replaced on my project canoe. The previous repairer used wood screws to attached the new gunwales to the ribs. In the process several of the rib ends are split/cracked about an inch or less. It looks like I could fill the cracks in the ribs with glue or epoxy, clamp and be back in busissness. However, this being my first canoe I do not have any idea what criteria is used in deciding when to repair a rib end vs. replacing it. Some guidance would be appreciated.

 

[Dave Wermuth]

I would glue the splits together if possible. Titebond III comes to mind. And then pre-drill a small hole for a ring nail if I was afraid it might split again. Screws are overkill for fastening ribs to inwale. If you decide you have to splice a rib top, it's not that hard. I use a sharp chisel and it takes a minute or so.

 

[Blackfly]

How about these rib ends that are flush with the bottom of the deck? Are these suppose to be like this or should they be flush with the top of the deck?

 

[Dave Wermuth]

they are correct as is. Cants that are near the stem are like that to allow the outwale to fit better when the time comes to add them.

 

[Blackfly]

Thank you Dave for your guidance.

 

[Blackfly]

I worked on several of the ribs ends this last weekend as the temperature finally reached 60 degrees. I spread some of the split ends caused by the screws, worked glue into them and then clamped them. This worked well on most of them except one. It was the first one that I did and I did not blowout the crack with compressed air. Could have been a lot of dust in there. Anyway, I am looking for recommendations for a filler for all the screw holes in the ends of the ribs. I want to fill them before pre-drilling for the nails. I could use titebond III and saw dust, or some 2 part expoxy. A couple of the ends are chipped and I am worried that the Titebond will show up way to light to match. How about Gorilla glue and saw dust? The areas that are hidden by the gunwales won't matter as much.

 

[Blackfly]

Couple photos. I used plastic wrap between the gunwale and the rib ends to keep the squeezed out glue in check.

 

[1905Gerrish]

Yellow glue and sawdust would be just fine for filling the screw holes. Epoxy would be fine as well but it tends to shatter often if you were to try to place a fastener through it again. Over the years I have tried with success to mix epoxy a little soft so it will not shatter. As far as the plastic wrap, I guess that works. Wax paper is a better option.

Dave, as far as the cants not attached above. I'm not familiar with them not being attached as a build method. Please if you could tell me what manufactures did this and it it a latter build method? I cant remember ever seeing that. I don't work on many canoes made after 1910.

 

[Dave Wermuth]

AS far as who did what, I can't recall. I've seen them just resting under the inwale or thinned and fastened along the inwale or full thickness all the way to the stem. I don't see many canoes prior to the 20's or so.

 

[Just1moredave]

Because of all the fasteners, I either replaced split rib ends or patched the split with 1/8" wood slivers. That way, you won't have to worry about avoiding a patch later, especially when canvassing.