Newbie Restoration Questions, Octa 17

[Hodtay]

Tonight I milled some WRC for planking repair and started looking more closely at what structural repairs I'll need to make. Both stems are split from tack holes and the bow stem is warped giving the leading edge a little curve. My initial thought is to repair the stern stem with epoxy or waterproof glue and replace a section of the bow stem. What local species of wood could I use to replace a portion of the stem? I live in California. Am I on track with my stem repair ideas?

The inwales seem solid but split in the areas where the deck plates attach. I think I could work epoxy or glue into the splits and repair the ends of the inwales.

The hull has been restored once before and several of the rib ends are split from ringshank nails being driven in and pulled out. A few of the rib ends are so damaged I know I'll have to scarf joint new ends on them. How many rib ends do I repair and are #4 brass screws an upgrade from ringshank nails?

Also, my new WCHA friend Mark is sending me drops from ribs he's made so I should soon have a supply of white cedar for rib end repair. If I didn't have local access to white cedar what wood could I use as a substitute for my rib end repair? I just thought that I have at least one broken rib that I need to replace and I could recycle it to repair rib ends.

I bought a gallon of Jasco stain and varnish remover to strip the interior of the hull. Is Jasco a good choice for stripping? I live in California where nasty stuff may not be available.

Thanks for any comments or suggestions.

Steve

 

[Dave Osborn]

I think oak or ash is typical for stem repair, and yes, splits and holes can be filled with epoxy. On larger holes I try to glue in a piece of wood like a match stick or small dowel, or even some scrap of some kind.

I would glue the split inwales with epoxy or Tite Bond III.

Rib tips should be good enough to nail to the inwales. Splits can be glued. Those that arent need to be repaired with a scarfed in piece. White cedar is best, but I have also use red cedar. As for recycling the old rib, ...Not a bad idea if the wood seems to have good integrity.

I see no advantage to using screws to attach ribs to inwales. Remember to fill old holes on inwales before reattaching replaced ribs and tips.
Sorry, don't know about Jasco. I have been fortunate to find a commercial furniture stripper that can strip a canoe for me at an affordable rate. I do know that hand stripping is a very tedious and time consuming. Good luck!

 

[Dave Osborn]

Some pics......
I do the scarfs with a belt sander and 60 grit belt, then make a parch piece to match on a bench to belt sander.

 

[Mark Adams]

Huh, It never occurred to me to use a belt sander. I have been doing it the labor intensive way, with a saw and a block plane. The belt sander would make it SO much easier! I'll try that on the war canoe I have that needs ends.

 

[Hodtay]

Clever idea using the belt sander

Thanks for the photos!

I have a belt sander I bought when I put hardwaood flooring in my house, haven't used it since. Looks I may get some more use from it.

Steve

 

[Dave Osborn]

Remove the top plank and hold the sander to the rib tip and "let her eat"! If the inwale is to be replaced. I'll remove a little more. Otherwise, I just sand the angle back to the inwale without touching it.

PS: I have a vacuum attachment on all of my sanders. It really helps with dust!

 

[Larry S]

Steve -

I used Jasco Speedomatic Paint Remover to strip my hull and it worked fine. Stripping is a messy job and Jasco is no different. It may be a good idea to buy a Bag O Rags before you start.