What is it - Ebay canoe?


Wooden Canoes are in the Blood
For sale on Ebay is a closed gunnel 16' canoe covered in fiberglass. Anyone have any thoughts as to who made it? I thought the shape of the stem inside the canoe was interesting. Ebay Item No. 110114523299

Jim C.
It is Canadian, but built by who?

You notice no taper to the ribs of the inwales at the deck, and square drive screws in the outwales(out side gunnels).

The seats my not be replacements but original.

There's my 2 cents.

the seller's reply...

I had emailed the seller of the glassed canoe, suggesting the use of a heat gun rather than a sander... and today I received the following reply:

Thank you for your imput.
There's a quarter inch of glass on the one boat I began sanding, the cedar skin under it is extremely thin and very dry. Cedar is very flamable, although a stable wood. Heat removing glass may work in some cases on some types of boats. I've been professionaly working with these materials for over 30 years, I have considerable experience in Mahogony, Redwood, Oak, Pine, Cedar, epoxies, Producing thousands of products over that time span. I really do appreciate your well meaning note. I won't let a a buyer walk away from here with out detail instructions on tool usage, safety with fiberglass etc... A strong heat gun in the hands of a novice would be very dangerous. The flash point is to quick. At least with a sander one can take down the glass in intervals controlling it with both the speed of the sander and the grit of the sandpaper. I would have used a heat gun my self if it would made the job more efficient and safer. I sanded down two 19 ft. Lightning sailboats and reglssed them the same way on cedar hulls. The results were perfect. I'm not trying to be a wise guy with my response, just share some of my 30+ years of professional experience working with these materials. I'm open to any new ideas that are both time efficient and safe.
Thank you again for your input, it's much appreciated. Rand
So should we take a poll as to wether they sell or not? :)

They both look pretty rough to me, and he seems to have an inflated view of what their potential is.

Low flash point???

Flash point of what?, the cedar or the old fiberglass?

I wonder what he would think if you used a small torch like those used in sweating pipes??

It rarely broke into flame when I did it (only the fiberglass caught fire) and a rag close at hand put out the fire. (couldn't generate enough heat with a heat gun) I did wear a protective glove on the non-torch hand.

Maybe planking on sail boats is a bit thicker.

I'll stick to the torch,

The guy is full of it. First of all, 1/4" of fiberglass would result in a canoe that weighed at least 200-250 lbs. If you did it with woven cloth (the most weight efficient means of generating strength, yielding the best fiber-to-resin ratio) it would take about ten-fifteen layers of fabric to generate that kind of thickness. No one who knows what they are doing would ever consider adding that much and a rank amateur would get bored and quit adding layers long before getting it that thick. If this guy isn't aware of the use of heat to soften and help remove both polyester and epoxy fiberglass, you can pretty much stick him in the rank amateur category, despite his "vast" experience... (a Lightning, by the way, is a 19', flat-sided plywood sailboat and there are tons of very badly "restored" Lightnings out there).

I have actually removed fiberglass from a canoe with a disk grinder, back in the dark ages (1975) before information sources like this one were available. I'm pretty good with a big disk grinder from my early days of using them to build strippers, but sanding a rib and plank hull is very different. In general, the tack heads survive OK, but what does happen is that just as soon as you cut through the hard fiberglass layers, the disk digs a dent or flat spot in the soft cedar. You end up with a boat covered in small dents and flat spots - all over the planking. This is already happening where he started sanding the hull and you can clearly see it in a couple of the photos. Unless you're willing to then cut away about half of your planking thickness with a long-board to get back to a fair shape, you're going to have a very lumpy hull. The only decent way to deal with the lumps are to replace planks or fill and fair the entire hull.

There is no reason on earth that this hull couldn't be stripped properly with the heat-gun method if somebody really wanted to put in the work required to do the job and thought it was worth doing, but you can bet your ass that the area he's already attacked is going to need to be fixed.
Torch Away!!!!

I have used a propane torch to separate glass from cedar planking. I works really well. Sure, you can catch the glass on fire if you are not carefull. Who cares? You are trying to remove it, right. It's not like igniting the bottom's of your favorite wooden skis :D

Adequate ventilation is probably a wise precaution, else, torch away!
I've only done one but a heat gun was more than sufficiant. How about soaking it like Gil suggests. Either sink it in a stream or lake or fill it with water. As the wood swells it will seperate from most of the epoxy or polyester.
Just my two cents. Denis