Trailer

John Zaber

Curious about Wooden Canoes
We haul our Old Town cedar/canvas with a trailer. I would appreciate seeing photos of your trailer without canoe. Just curious how folks rig a trailer for canoe hauling.

I would also appreciate it if the WCHA member I met at Little Hosmer pond in Craftsbury could contact me.
 
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This is my trailer which was specifically built for canoes. The horizontal bars are spaced so that a “fancy“ high prow canoe can fit without fouling the canoe above/ below or the trailer. It is built so that I load from the footpath and don’t have to step in the road. At the rear my overhang is less than 1m beyond the lights so all stays balanced and legal. The trailer itself is also heavy gauge galvanised box section so that it sits on the road well and doesn’t bounce. I trailer with the canoes inverted like Benson butI know that some like to sling them the right way up in cradles.


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I have a Trailex SUT-250-M2, which weighs about 135 lbs. and which can carry two canoes or four kayaks. Here is a picture of it as used by the person from whom I bought it last year:

Trailex front.jpg


I removed the two vertical upright posts because I wanted to center my wood-canvas canoe on the horizonal bars:

Trailer and Wheels Atop.jpg


You can see more pictures of my trailer in use in THIS THREAD on another site.
 
I am in the middle or restoring a 1937 Old Town which is way too big for me to hoist on top of my Jeep, so I just got this kit - the Ironton Jet Ski and Personal Watercraft Trailer Kit, Steel Frame, 610-Lb. Load. Steel frame with 800-lb. GVWR, 610-lb. load capacity. Meets DOT requirements. MUCH Assembly required.

I haven't started putting it together but there are several very good step by step videos on YouTube. I also called our town clerk that does car and trailer registration and issues license plates and she said several other people in out town have these and they are totally road-legal.

Best place with cheapest shipping i could find was Northern Tool here: https://www.northerntool.com/produc...er-kit-steel-frame-610-lb-load-capacity-37554

It looks pretty much perfect for my canoe. Now I just need to remember how to back up with a trailer on again! lol
ironton.jpeg
 
Most trailers available today are too heavily sprung for canoes and wooden boats. A 610lb load rated trailer will beat a canoe or light weight boat to death-especially if it is hauled upright. As I progressed in age, I bought a Chinese trailer and altered it so that it does not damage customers'
canoes. For liability concerns, will no disclose modifications. Now how crazy is that???
 
Most trailers available today are too heavily sprung for canoes and wooden boats. A 610lb load rated trailer will beat a canoe or light weight boat to death-especially if it is hauled upright. As I progressed in age, I bought a Chinese trailer and altered it so that it does not damage customers'
canoes. For liability concerns, will no disclose modifications. Now how crazy is that???
I guess I've "been told"! :oops: :D
 
Most trailers available today are too heavily sprung for canoes and wooden boats. A 610lb load rated trailer will beat a canoe or light weight boat to death-especially if it is hauled upright.

I agree. That will not be a problem for trailers designed specifically for canoes and kayaks, such as mine above, which is rated to carry 250 lbs. The problem of being too heavily sprung will apply to a lot of the "bunk" trailers designed for motorboats and personal watercraft.

I like to carry canoes upside-down on padded crossbar trailers, not rightside-up on bunk trailers, especially if I'm traveling long distances. A canoe is less likely to be damaged when being carried on its gunwales rather than on its hull when bouncing around on bumpy, pot-holey or wilderness dirt roads.
 
Most trailers available today are too heavily sprung for canoes and wooden boats. A 610lb load rated trailer will beat a canoe or light weight boat to death-especially if it is hauled upright. As I progressed in age, I bought a Chinese trailer and altered it so that it does not damage customers'
canoes. For liability concerns, will no disclose modifications. Now how crazy is that???
My experience also. If you carry it upright it needs sculpted padding at least 50% of the boat. I'd modify those Northern Tool/Harbor Freight rails for continuous full contact. Car top and simple canoe blocks is best but of course, not always possible. I recall taking one of the two leaves out of a trailer once.
 
I'm curious about advantages of hauling a canoe right side up? It's certainly an advantage that it does not need to be flipped when you load but doesn't strapping it down on the bottom (tightly) deform the hull?
With it turned, the rails support the hull in a way that should keep them from shifting around and deforming the bottom. The straps spread load more evenly across the entire bottom. When you carry it to the trailer, it's already turned on your shoulder so all you need to do is "drop" it in place.
I can eventually envision finding it harder to roof my canoes. I have my cartopper on a reworked jetski trailer....it sure is convenient to load and unload.
 
I had a stiff trailer that beat the crap out of canoes. I removed one of the leafs in the springs and all was well.
Remember that a canoe on a trailer will pick up all the dirt, dust and grime that your vehicle kicks up.
Sounds like a great idea for easy loading, etc, but traveling rustic roads to that secret fishing spot will change your mind.
 
I saw this canoe trailer at the Wisconsin Canoe Heritage Museum 2021 May boat show. I took a couple pictures for reference. I'm planning to attend this year's gathering. I'd be curious to learn how the trailer is holding up.
 

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I saw this canoe trailer at the Wisconsin Canoe Heritage Museum 2021 May boat show. I took a couple pictures for reference. I'm planning to attend this year's gathering. I'd be curious to learn how the trailer is holding up.
It looks beautiful but I'm skeptical of the contact area on the hull. Again, this has to do with the roughness of the road, the distance, and the speed. We have two issues, first is the adequate support for the canoe and second is the suspension of the carrying wheels. Cars are made for soft rides. Trailers not so. I approach it from both sides since I travel rough roads often in Ontario. Locally down south, just watch out for the ocassional pot holes.
 
The best trailer that I have ever owned is a small old Holsclaw that came under a small sailboat and has coil springs and motorcycle-sized shock absorbers. Boats come and go, but that trailer is never leaving the fleet. It has carried sailboats, iceboats, canoes, sea kayaks and is currently set up for two Hobie Lynx pedal-powered board-boats and a cargo box. It rides so much smoother and quieter than the typical leaf sprung trailers that you keep needing to remind yourself that it's there. If you ever see one for sale, buy it, even if you have to throw away the old boat that is sitting on it. It will be tan and blue and rusty, but that's a pretty easy fix. It will soon become your favorite trailer.

The north canoe rides right-side up on a modified jet ski trailer. With that kind of stem height there isn't much of another option. It has five contoured cradles under it and seems to do OK. It has a cover to keep rain out. Back when we first moved here my wife and I put it on top of our Astro Van by ourselves, but we can't remember how we did it and can't imagine trying it these days.
 

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