Once the rib has been bent around the bottom of the canoe, what is the proper order of tacking it to the inside of the canoe? Does one start at one side of the rib and start taciing towards the middle and then towards the opposite side? Or does one start in the middle and work towards both sides? I assume it is best to use the old tack holes and drill a small started hole in the rib and then clinch the tack. I'm sure this is a two person job, except maybe for the sides. Need some advise with this part of the project. Steamed and bent the ribs without any problems, but securing them to the canoe is a first for me. Thanks for your help and advise. Ron.
Replacing ribs after steaming
- Thread starter Ron Bull
- Start date
Steve Ambrose
Nut in a Canoe
Use spring clamps on the ends to hold them in place on the rails. Start in the middle of the rib and work out, avoiding the old tack holes in the planking - you won't get good holding power and the heads could pull through if you tack in the old holes. No need to drill the rib. As you work into the curves of the hull be sure to firmly seat the rib against the planking BUT too much force and you risk building a bulge into the hull. The rib should naturally fall into place but you may find you need to shift the end one way or the other to get it to lay flat against the planking.
Run your hand over the hull as you're working. If you start to feel a slight indentation then the rib is not being pushed down into the hull far enough. If you start to feel a bulge and see increased gaps between the planking then you're pushing it too deep into the hull. Once you're happy with the final position, predrill and seat the ends to the inwale with ring nails.
Run your hand over the hull as you're working. If you start to feel a slight indentation then the rib is not being pushed down into the hull far enough. If you start to feel a bulge and see increased gaps between the planking then you're pushing it too deep into the hull. Once you're happy with the final position, predrill and seat the ends to the inwale with ring nails.
Steve Ambrose
Nut in a Canoe
If you have several broken ones in a row then do this in two steps, skipping every other one. Then come back and do the ones you skipped in the first round. This assumes you haven't already pulled all of the broken ribs. The intent is to replace the broken ribs without distorting the shape of the hull. That can be very difficult if you have several in a row and you attempt to do all at the same time.
Thanks for the additional information. I started removing the second rib today, skipping one. My son-in-law will be here this week-end and he will be helping me replace the two ribs. Hopefully he can teach my wife and then we can do the remaining three. After all it is her canoe that has been in the family for the last 95 years. Her dad bought it when her brother was five years old. She is the last of her family, ten years younger that her brother. She is 78 years old and still running half-marathons and not on any medications. The least I can do for her is repair the canoe. I should have both ribs ready to tack by Saturday. I steamed the first on yesterday and I am very satisfied with the fit. I have it clamped in place and ready to tack. I will steam the next one tomorrow and have it ready by Saturday. thanks again for the advise and help. Ron.
