Ready Rod Seat Hangers

[dboles]

The person that had this canoe before me lowered the seats for sailing.He used 1/4 inch ready rod which has nuts on either end. The top nuts are flush with the inwales.Tried gently hammering these to remove but I do believe they are rusted insde the hole on the inwale.
Any ideas or suggestions on removing
Thanks
Dan

 

[davelanthier]

A real easy fix

Dan , just sell me the canoe as is and let me worry about those hangers .

 

[MikeCav]

Dan - try heating the rod (but not too hot!) the expansion and contraction may cause the threads to loosen. Jut don't burn your boat!

 

[dboles]

Thanks Mike I will try that .May also try to lift it out with a larger c clamp
And Dave when it is all effed up and broken I will let it go cheap likely so until then I know you will be in my corner cheering me on for this restoration!

 

[Woodchuck]

Chemicals...

Before you burn up the shop and use I beams for leverage, be sure to try the old and proven WD40. The stuff really penetrates well and after a while, it evaporates and leaves nothing... WORTH A SHOT

 

[Dave Wermuth]

Ready Rod?

If Ready rod is threaded, why not screw it out?

 

[mark wismer]

If there are nuts on the drill rod above and below the rail. a nut splitter would remove both nuts alowing you to concentrate on the rod.

If it is rust try looking for P B Blaster at a national auto parts chain. WD40 is 'water displacement' formula 40...it may penetrate light rust but P B cuts thru heavy corrosion...

If you have access to an air powered impact wrench, hold the bottom side w/ a wrench and tighten the top w/ the gun, a real rusty rod will snap and that may allow you to 'work' the rest loose...

Since it is threaded rod don't discount the idea that it may have been 'screwed' thru the rail and might need to be twisted out. Hard wood would have formed threads if it was 'screwed' thru the rail...

 

[bob goeckel]

if the rod IS threaded into the wood you may also want to try the screw trick of tightening the thread first then backing out. also with the nut just at the top of the rod threads give it a fairly good whack with the hammer( with a bucking iron under the rail if necessary) this is not to drive it out just to loosen it up. driving it out may split or break the inwale.

 

[davelanthier]

Dan , all kidding aside , this has worked for me . Grasp the lower section of ready rod with vice grips then back off the bottom outwale nut about 2" and cut off the rod above that nut . Gently use your vice grips to work and loosen the remaining rod . You should now be able to tap the rod upward and out . A short board with a hole larger than the nut could be clamped to the top of the outwale to give it added strength while removing the rod . Good luck .

 

[Dave Wermuth]

interesting problem

So the top nut is flush with the inwhale, right? Why not drill the rod out through the center of the nut? pop the nut out and go from there. But you probably have it all done by now. How'd it end up?

 

[Dave Osborn]

Last summer I restored a LLoyd Rehbein Canoe with threaded rod seat hangers. The nuts were rusted onto the brass rod. I ground off the nuts with an angle grinder, then had to un-thread the rods from the inwale from below.