Question about poorly fitted rib

[Colorado Bob]

I replaced 6 ribs on my 1940 Old Town Yankee Model. After varnishing I noticed 2 or 3 ribs don't fit snugly against the curved portion of the hull just on one side (see photo). Can anyone advise me if this is a serious problem or not? Can this lead to bigger problems? It is "easier" to replace the ribs now then after I recanvas - although it's still a lot of time, effort and expense. My concern is that the planking or rib could crack. My hope is that I can leave it and move on. Please advise me.

 

[Dave Wermuth]

I can't really tell from the photo on my tablet but i think you're going to have to make a judgements call. I don't think anything horrible will happen. When replacing a rib i drive the nail to the inwhales last, after i have driven the tacks. And i do the tacks fron the keel to the rail. Trying to hold it all flat and straight white driving the nails first generally resulted in the ocaisional misfit rib for me too.

 

[Gil Cramer]

I would replace the rib, but I love bending ribs.

 

[Rod Tait (Orca Boats)]

Assuming there is no canvas on yet, I would try to take a heat gun to the rib and heat it real good without burning the wood and as it softens, push it out for more of a curve. If you tack the planking on and force it inwards, you will might have a flat spot on the outside.

 

[MGC]

I would replace the rib, but I love bending ribs.

Agree on both counts....

or, you might still be able to push the rib into place by removing the ring nail from the inside rail and removing all of the tacks from the gap up to the inside rail. I would not be surprised if you were to find that you can push the rib where it belongs and re-clinch it. Re-clinch from bottom to top. If the rib had the correct form before you installed it it should not be very difficult to put it where it belongs.

 

[Dave Wermuth]

After getting a look on my laptop, I'm with MGC. Try pulling the ring nail and the tacks above the gap and then work it flat by tacking from bottom up.

 

[Colorado Bob]

Thanks Everyone!

What if I do nothing?

If I remove the tacks and nails and try to reattach it tighter then the top of the rib will be not be flush with the gunwhales; I guess it's one or the other. It was one of the first ribs I installed and showed my inexperience. The other ribs are much better. I decided to do a 95% perfect restoration because that other 5% can be much more time consuming and expensive. I intend to use the boat but still want to show off its beauty.

 

[Gil Cramer]

If you choose to remove the tacks and nails and re-attach it tighter, cut a small piece of rib and glue it on top of the rib after the outwale is installed. That will make the rib top flush with the rails, and nobody but you will be the wiser.

 

[Paul Scheuer]

In the picture, do I see where a tack has pulled chunk of the planking out, at the third rib up from the bottom of the pic.? I think that that will only get worse.

 

[Colorado Bob]

In the picture, do I see where a tack has pulled chunk of the planking out, at the third rib up from the bottom of the pic.? I think that that will only get worse.

The tacks have pulled in deeper on the underside, countersunk very deeply. Linseed oiling the planking made the wood much softer and prone to damage; I couldn't pull the nails out with a nail puller if I wanted to. I'm slowly convincing myself that this is the only chance I have to remove and reinstall a new rib before I re-canvas. This will set me back a couple weeks, but I shouldn't have to do this again for 30 years.

 

[Colorado Bob]

Yes. I considered that after I posted that comment.