Paddle finish

[laurNsG]

Epoxy as a base coat only really serves as a pore filler so that you get a gloss to your varnish faster.

Here's my protocol, worked out on many paddles:

I use an epoxy tip that is set into the end of the paddle. A fiberglass plate secures the whole thing together in the end of the paddle wood. This tip is a fair bit of work but works for me.

I varnish the entire paddle with one sealer coat of varnish. Then sand with 220. The blade receives 2 more coats of varnish, then allowed to dry for several days, then is flat sanded to 400 grit, then two flood coats of varnish.

The shaft and grip receive 2 coats of Tung oil over the varnish. I haven't found anything nicer, yet.

what kind of varnish do you use, is it marine spar ?

 

[laurNsG]

I'm similar to above. Two or three coats of marine varnish on blade and then "polish" with very fine paper to give it a satin finish. On shaft and grip I use tung oil. I've never had blisters with any paddle, but I prefer the feel of oiled to varnished wood.

Steve

what kind of marine varnish do you use?

 

[laurNsG]

If it was boiled linseed oil all you'd have to do is wait till it is thoroughly dry, then varnish over it. With raw oil, you have to wait longer.

is it good to do the boiled linseed oil step?

 

[Pook]

Laur,

Not wishing to answer for the others but...I've become a convert to oiled finishes over varnish for my paddles, too.
So much so that I recently sanded the varnish off a couple of my Kettlewells down to the blade and then oiled the shaft and grip. It is much softer and the paddle more responsive in my hands after a day out in a canoe.

For the wear and tear on the blade I still use a good quality Marine vanish, but for shaft and grip I use Badger oil, a hemp oil blend.
https://badgerpaddles.com/badger-wood-oil-info/

Hope that helps.
Bruce