It's a Pete but--

Dave Wermuth

Who hid my paddle?
The decal is in excellent condition and so, it's a Pete, but is it a North Boy? The dimensions seem to fit the description. I intend to restore it for a guy who felt really bad when he forgot to tie it down and it flew off the truck in a rather spectacular way. The landing was, well, not good Ethel. He thought his friend tied it down, the friend thought he tied it down. He felt so bad that I just had to sign on for this one. If he had not been so heartbroken I would have declined. This puts all my own canoes on hold tho. This will be a good test of my resolve in rescuing hurt boats.
OOops, here's the photo

i FORGOT to attach the photo. So, here it is.


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That's why I always preferred whitewater to highways. Softer places to fall.

Looks like a job for Andre

Where's Andre when you need him?:eek:
I know.

I suggested he take it to Gil. But I was closer and I am already doing a canoe for a friend of his. I could not say no when I saw how he felt about what happened. He was really more crushed than the canoe.

I am thinking that I'll use a girdle around the outside empty space and fit the ribs in as smooth as I can once I get the inwales and keel back together.

I plan to get the wood work done before stripping, etc. No point in wasting time and resources on the stripping and then fail.

BTW, I do not think stripping after the woodworking is very helpful to getting new wood stained, conditioned, matched, aged, etc. I've tried it. BUT, I don't think it really hurts much either.
I never allow anybody to tie a canoe on my vehicle, and I will never tie a canoe on somebody else's vehicle!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Good job Dave. You can do it. Gil
Well Fitz, ordinarily I'd say put a transom on it but, well, might make a funny looking Pram. As its not unseasonably cold I'd advocate fixing that one rather than burning it if not too much is missing, looks like a kool boat just asking for a 4hp. Dave can do it, he's got all that cedar stockpiled. :p
Helpful hint for coloring with oil stain. You can make your own oil stain using artist oil paint. Just mix the color up in turpentine or paint thinner. That way you can use one of those really neat wood color wheels for furniture repair where the colors are based on umber, burnt umber, sienna, burnt sienna etc. Also sometimes there is a faint hint of a very light green in old oxidised wood that is very hard to duplicate. Use of a faint alcohol/water based yellow green analine dye may reproduce that look under an oil stain if desired. But you need to fool around with lots of scrap pieces.
It looks like a fair amount of the canoe is missing. Unless you have another canoe like this one over which to bend the ribs, this could be quite interesting. I think that I would start by installing new inwales and a temporary keel. Next I would attach battens spanning the void. After attaching small wood pieces the thickness of the planking on each batten, I would bend the ribs making certain that each had an inch or two extra length. Then, starting at the garboards, attach planking. Keep the hot water handy,and use the planking to fair the hull by adjusting the ribs as you go. These are my first thoughts and there's certainly room for improvement. Gil
Looks like you are well on your way to having a Peterborough Sectional Model canoe (see attached)... :eek:


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Looks like we've reinvented the sectional canoe. Hmm.
thanks for the tips. The inwales are all there as far as length. They match up. The boat matches up what's there of it. The starboard front quarter is devoid of any planks or ribs. I think this way could work. I was thinking I'd take the lines off the port side and make a short form. But I like your way.
Having at least one form in the devoid section to keep the battens true is a good idea. It will make the planking fair easier. Gil
that's it.

Yes, Gil. I think that's how I'll do it. I feel better now.

Norm, I've only taken lines off one time, but here's how i did it.

I started with a good sized 3/4 sheet of plywood. I think 3 1/2 or four foot wide. I then cut a C shape into its side. I left enough plywood at the openings of the C so that it was still solid. That's the main part. It has to pass over the canoe you are copying and the area you are copying. Because the canoe I did was symetrical i only needed one quarter of a hull that was fair. I then used screws to fasten 8 or 10 pointer sticks to the open part of the C. You'll need alot more pointers I think for doing the entire cross section, I only did half, from keel to shear. The center line is the refernce point to morror image the line to the other side. They were about 1/4" by 1" by 12" or so. They need to be long enough to touch the hull everywhere when the copying frame is in place. the pointer sticks were slotted so they would slide in/out. A washer on the screw helps with the sliding/adjusting. Then, with everything square and set up on a good solid working surface I set the frame over the canoe. I used a strongback to hold the canoe. Every twelve inches along the canoe, (or one quarter of it in my case) I put the pointer stick points touching the canoe and tightened the screws so the pointers can remember their place in the world when I move the whole thing to the paper. Once all pointers were right I then took the frame from there and layed it on a large piece of paper and made a dot at every point onto the paper. Connect the dots with a fairing stick to make it a smooth curve. and it is the exact outside of the hull. You'll need to now allow for the thickness of the hull AND the thickness of the solid form either move the dots in or what I did was to draw the line and move that in using a compass, (If I remember correctly) I make it seem harder than it is. Probably way more by way of explanation than you asked for, but perhaps some of it is useful.