My new 1992 Old Town Trapper turned out to be a 1964 50# I have some planking to replace . From what I have gathered, this planking is 1/8 inch cedar, But what type ? Is there any available ? I can plane down thicker stock, but would prefer to just buy what I need. #2 This boat also has half ribs, I feel like they'll give me trouble with sanding / stripping and 1/8 planking to baby. How about removing them for the restore ? #3 What's the final word on the best stripper to remove this 45 year old finish ? All advice is welcome and appreciated. Thank You to everyone as always !
Houston... We have a problem.
- Thread starter trapper
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Dave Wermuth
Who hid my paddle?
Trapper
Not a problem
We have the technology.
Western Red Cedar is readily available.
I suggest you do not remove the half ribs.
If it is lightweight it is delicate too. Half ribs add strength.
A pro stripper (of varnish) is recommended.
I was not that good with the orange stuff.
I use stripeez mostly.
Regards,
Dave/
Not a problem
We have the technology.
Western Red Cedar is readily available.
I suggest you do not remove the half ribs.
If it is lightweight it is delicate too. Half ribs add strength.
A pro stripper (of varnish) is recommended.
I was not that good with the orange stuff.
I use stripeez mostly.
Regards,
Dave/
50 pounder.
I have a 50 pounder of the same vintage. The planking on it is 1/8 inch thick western red cedar. You could probably find decking material at a lumber yard to make your own planking or you could check out the Builders and Suppliers section here:
http://www.wcha.org/buildsupply/
A toothbrush may help you strip around the half ribs. I use methylene chloride based stuff after trying all kinds of stuff designed to make the job less nasty. Work a section of the canoe at a time continuously keeping the finish wet.
Keep us posted.
I have a 50 pounder of the same vintage. The planking on it is 1/8 inch thick western red cedar. You could probably find decking material at a lumber yard to make your own planking or you could check out the Builders and Suppliers section here:
http://www.wcha.org/buildsupply/
A toothbrush may help you strip around the half ribs. I use methylene chloride based stuff after trying all kinds of stuff designed to make the job less nasty. Work a section of the canoe at a time continuously keeping the finish wet.
Keep us posted.
Guys,
I learned this from Pam Wedd. A source of Red Cedar is 4x4 posts that are at your local lumber yard. Look them over and find one the has primarily vertical grain take it home and resaw it.
Denis
I learned this from Pam Wedd. A source of Red Cedar is 4x4 posts that are at your local lumber yard. Look them over and find one the has primarily vertical grain take it home and resaw it.
Denis
Douglas Ingram
Red River Canoe & Paddle
Patience and a good working rhythm is essential when stripping canoes. Don't let it dry out, let IT do the work, you just help it along.
1/8" planking isn't nearly as delicate as it may sound. It pretty standard on many northern built canoes.
1/8" planking isn't nearly as delicate as it may sound. It pretty standard on many northern built canoes.
Dan Lindberg
Ex Wood Hoarder
And to expand on Denis's comments,
when ever I go to the local home center, ie, Menard's, I take a quick pass down the cedar row, checking the 2x stock for mostly clear, tight grain pieces. I usually look at the 12-8 ft'ers, and if I see something with few or only knots on one side, I buy it. About every 4th time I find a piece suitable for planking.
The other option, if you have a real lumber yard close, is to go there and find some Aye grade cedar, (it's clear) but this is about 3 or 4 times the price as getting it at Menard's and "high grading" it.
Dan
when ever I go to the local home center, ie, Menard's, I take a quick pass down the cedar row, checking the 2x stock for mostly clear, tight grain pieces. I usually look at the 12-8 ft'ers, and if I see something with few or only knots on one side, I buy it. About every 4th time I find a piece suitable for planking.
The other option, if you have a real lumber yard close, is to go there and find some Aye grade cedar, (it's clear) but this is about 3 or 4 times the price as getting it at Menard's and "high grading" it.
Dan
Western Red Cedar
What I do for my W. red cedar stock is to plane down qyuarter sawn W. red cedar clapboards that I barter from construction jobs that are left over bundles or pieces from high end house siding jobs. Many times you can pick up rather long cut offs and split pieces which otherwise go into the dumpster. You can also purchase bundles ( and possibly pieces from broken open bundles) at most lumber yards (its pricey though) It can be secured in 16 foot lengths. I have not seen clapboards longer than 16 foot but they might be available. Suspect that would have to be a special order item.
Ed
What I do for my W. red cedar stock is to plane down qyuarter sawn W. red cedar clapboards that I barter from construction jobs that are left over bundles or pieces from high end house siding jobs. Many times you can pick up rather long cut offs and split pieces which otherwise go into the dumpster. You can also purchase bundles ( and possibly pieces from broken open bundles) at most lumber yards (its pricey though) It can be secured in 16 foot lengths. I have not seen clapboards longer than 16 foot but they might be available. Suspect that would have to be a special order item.
Ed
Ed,
Good idea, I think I'll try that!
Denis
Good idea, I think I'll try that!
Denis
Blue Viking
Wooden Canoe Maniac
LOL...I have been stock piling odds and ends from stores for awhile now....pretty soon I will be able to totally replank a canoe in red cedar when one comes in...If you have the gift of the "gab" you can claim the stock as too little from broken open packages and barter a price...IT WORKS! They dont want to keep re-stacking it for people to get at the bundles...
Bill Mackey
LOVES Wooden Canoes
Cedar source
I found an excellent of edge grain cedar in the fencing pile. 1/2X6X6' It was rough sawn but since I was goiig to plane it down to the right thickness it didn;t make any difference. It only took about 10 min. to find the right piece. Best part was the price of $1.99
I found an excellent of edge grain cedar in the fencing pile. 1/2X6X6' It was rough sawn but since I was goiig to plane it down to the right thickness it didn;t make any difference. It only took about 10 min. to find the right piece. Best part was the price of $1.99
Gary Willoughby
Boat Builder
Wesrern Red Cedar
Fingerle Lumber in Ann Arbor Mi Has all kinds of clear quartersawed red cedar up to 20 feet and all widths in stock
Fingerle Lumber in Ann Arbor Mi Has all kinds of clear quartersawed red cedar up to 20 feet and all widths in stock
John Greer
LOVES Wooden Canoes
I've tried all types of varnish remover and just recently tried Dad's Easy Spray after reading about this in other forum comments. Have to say that of all I've tried this is much better. Found it in a local hardware store. Found it easier to apply with a brush than using the spray nozzle. Still it's a slow process. You can also use a heat gun just being careful not to burn the planking. I use a small oval shaped cabinet scraper after about 15 minutes. If your canoe has several coats of old varnish it will probably take at least two coats to remove but it does work.
