Epifanes painting tips?

[ReedLeb]

Spring has finally arrived here in NH after a cold, wet May, so let the painting begin!
Looking for tips on painting a canoe with Epifanes topside enamel.
This is my first canoe paint job (probably of many). I have primed with 2 coats of Epifanes Multimarine primer/undercoater.
First question is about sanding between coats-hand or power tool and grits?
Second is what paint application technique have you found works best- roller, roller and tipping, or brush, or other??
Any experiences good or bad is much appreciated.
Thanks, Reed

 

[MGC]

I have had great luck using Epifanes paints.
I generally thin it very carefully to the point where it wants to "work" without a lot of effort. You can tell when it is right. Either a roller or a brush may be used and tipping is the trick to getting a perfect result.
When the paint is too thick, you might find it running... If it is too thin, it might dry before you can tip it. There is a happy medium that you will find through experimentation and experience. Between coats, allow the paint to dry and then be sure to carefully hand sand to get the "tooth" you need for the next layers.
If you are using a brush, be sure to care for it properly.
I am attaching a very useful article from Wooden Canoe that explains Pam Wedd's process. You will not find better instructions anywhere.

 

[1905Gerrish]

Reed,
I use interlux 333 or sometimes paint thinner. 5-10% to get that right feel Mike mentioned. I hand sand down to 320 for the last couple coats. I roll with a microfoam. Its great paint. I would not paint with much humidity in the air. Save the task for those nice days outside. Nice to have a spotter behind you in case of a touch up!
Zack

 

[ReedLeb]

Thanks both for the Epifanes painting tips. The Pam Webb article is a great guide, and before my time with the WCHA.
I have some of the Epifanes brush thinner and added about a tablespoon to 350 ml of primer (about 4-5% dilution) as recommended by Jerry Stelmok, and it seemed to work pretty well.
I'll plan on the same approach for the enamel. I also have Petit brushing thinner #120, sounds like it's similar to Interlux 333 to slow drying and improve burshability.
I will definitely try the microfoam roller, I have only used the fuzzy 3/8" nap with the primer. I may also try the 3/16" short nap fuzzy roller.
Any recommendations on paint flattening agents for the final coat (s)?
Thanks again.

 

[MGC]

I have used Epifanes thinner but I generally do as Zach does and use the Interlux 333 I have on hand.
For a matte finish, you might consider using paint from Kirby. They will mix it for you. I don't like their paint as much as I do the Epifanes, but others sing their praises.
I most recently used Interlux flattening agent with Epifanes. It worked fine although the flattener came with a very thick layer of thickened flattener in the can. I used it after removing that and filtering it.
A comment about using a flattener. It can be very tricky to get it 100% without holidays. You really need to pay very close attention to avoid having shiny little spots peeking through. I think it is much easier to get a good high gloss finish than a high quality flat finish.

 

[Dan Lindberg]

I only use Interlux (so far), thinned w/333.

I roll and tip, one side of the canoe at a time IF there is a keel. If no keel, I start on 1 side, go about 20", tip, and go to the other side and repeat, I do this down the length of the canoe to maintain a wet edge.

If I'm using brushes, I use 2, one for each side, as they load up and don't "flow" until cleaned.

As for help, get "Brightwork" by Whittman.

As I consider the canvas and paint to be "consumables", I don't worry too much about the finish, and usually stick to 4 coats total.

Dan

 

[Andre Cloutier]

Epifanes is almost fool proof. touch of thinner and some flow extender produce excellent workability and keep the foam brush from dragging or squeaking and extend working time nicely.

MARINE OIL

Official website of Owatrol

owatrol-international.com

 

[ReedLeb]

Thanks to all your input, I have made decent progress on my 1889 build.
After a good sanding of the first coat of Epifanes, I moved the canoe into my basement shop (12 ½' x 26') since it is the only conditioned space I have available (a dehumidifier and space heater). I was able to keep the shop at about 65-70 degrees and 50-55% humidity. Certainly not spacious, but I can get atound the entire boat with good lighting. After a thorough vacuuming to remove as many sources of dust as possible I had a fairly “clean” space.
Epifanes Deep Red thinned with Interlux 333, about 5%, worked well with a foam roller and tipped with a brush. As described in the Webb article, I worked on about 2' on one side then the other side up the length of the canoe. I have the canoe outside awaiting a light wet sanding, mother nature is helping with the wet part, then back in for a third coat.

While in the shop a couple more coats of varnish on the hull and thwarts, hopeful for a July launching!

I must agree with you Andre that Epifanes must be almost “foolproof” since some folks are convinced I am a fool for getting into this wood canvas canoe thing!

Hope to catch up with folks at the assembly next month, Reed

 

[chris pearson]

No! Epifanes performs brilliantly low 60’s temperature! Critical! Flow is so much better low temps, slows drying time! Do not paint on a warm humid day! At least the last coat. Folks wait for the warm weather to paint and it’s an enemy of a good paint job.

 

[dtdcanoes]

A review of Pam Wedd's paper on painting your canoe, a fresh can of Epifanes, a can of extender on the side and a well treated premium Italian hog bristle oval brush from Epifanes. I've used the same brush for over twenty years and it is still ready to go. I tried the roll and tip and had trouble keeping track of what I had in which hand and in my mouth. I had unusual front tooth wear, jaw muscle spasms and two trigger fingers that night, I could never find the right place to set the roller aside without its rolling off the bilge and the lanyard was awkward and messy beyond civil language. My bristle brush is named PIGGY . Just sayin'
DAVE

 

[MGC]

No! Epifanes performs brilliantly low 60’s temperature! Critical! Flow is so much better low temps, slows drying time! Do not paint on a warm humid day! At least the last coat. Folks wait for the warm weather to paint and it’s an enemy of a good paint job.

I suspect that problems I have experienced with Kirby paint may have to do with using it on warm days. I ran into all kinds of problems including small bubbles and also quick drying before I could tip. I ended up thinning and painting with a brush. True that Epifanes is fine when it's cool out.

 

[chris pearson]

I was an industrial model maker in automotive. We had some top notch automotive paint guys and you’d be surprised how cold they kept the paint booth!

 

[ReedLeb]

Chris thanks for the temperature advice. Fortunately, my walkout basement shop stays in the low to mid 60's this time of year. Gets up to 70 with long hot spells in July and August. It's a good place to hang out when it gets to the dog days of summer! Just the lights and dehumidifier will raise the temp a couple degrees. Pretty easy to keep the humidity between 50% and 60%
I know just what you mean Dave, you definitely have to be ambidextrous rolling and tipping, it certainly tests my dexterity, flexibility and concentration. Use it or lose it! My biggest concern is dropping the paint.