Epifanes painting tips?

ReedLeb

Too many canoes
Spring has finally arrived here in NH after a cold, wet May, so let the painting begin!
Looking for tips on painting a canoe with Epifanes topside enamel.
This is my first canoe paint job (probably of many). I have primed with 2 coats of Epifanes Multimarine primer/undercoater.
First question is about sanding between coats-hand or power tool and grits?
Second is what paint application technique have you found works best- roller, roller and tipping, or brush, or other??
Any experiences good or bad is much appreciated.
Thanks, Reed
 

Attachments

  • 1889 primer.jpg
    1889 primer.jpg
    198.8 KB · Views: 20
I have had great luck using Epifanes paints.
I generally thin it very carefully to the point where it wants to "work" without a lot of effort. You can tell when it is right. Either a roller or a brush may be used and tipping is the trick to getting a perfect result.
When the paint is too thick, you might find it running... If it is too thin, it might dry before you can tip it. There is a happy medium that you will find through experimentation and experience. Between coats, allow the paint to dry and then be sure to carefully hand sand to get the "tooth" you need for the next layers.
If you are using a brush, be sure to care for it properly.
I am attaching a very useful article from Wooden Canoe that explains Pam Wedd's process. You will not find better instructions anywhere.
 

Attachments

Reed,
I use interlux 333 or sometimes paint thinner. 5-10% to get that right feel Mike mentioned. I hand sand down to 320 for the last couple coats. I roll with a microfoam. Its great paint. I would not paint with much humidity in the air. Save the task for those nice days outside. Nice to have a spotter behind you in case of a touch up!
Zack
 
  • Like
Reactions: MGC
Thanks both for the Epifanes painting tips. The Pam Webb article is a great guide, and before my time with the WCHA.
I have some of the Epifanes brush thinner and added about a tablespoon to 350 ml of primer (about 4-5% dilution) as recommended by Jerry Stelmok, and it seemed to work pretty well.
I'll plan on the same approach for the enamel. I also have Petit brushing thinner #120, sounds like it's similar to Interlux 333 to slow drying and improve burshability.
I will definitely try the microfoam roller, I have only used the fuzzy 3/8" nap with the primer. I may also try the 3/16" short nap fuzzy roller.
Any recommendations on paint flattening agents for the final coat (s)?
Thanks again.
 
I have used Epifanes thinner but I generally do as Zach does and use the Interlux 333 I have on hand.
For a matte finish, you might consider using paint from Kirby. They will mix it for you. I don't like their paint as much as I do the Epifanes, but others sing their praises.
I most recently used Interlux flattening agent with Epifanes. It worked fine although the flattener came with a very thick layer of thickened flattener in the can. I used it after removing that and filtering it.
A comment about using a flattener. It can be very tricky to get it 100% without holidays. You really need to pay very close attention to avoid having shiny little spots peeking through. I think it is much easier to get a good high gloss finish than a high quality flat finish.
 
I only use Interlux (so far), thinned w/333.

I roll and tip, one side of the canoe at a time IF there is a keel. If no keel, I start on 1 side, go about 20", tip, and go to the other side and repeat, I do this down the length of the canoe to maintain a wet edge.

If I'm using brushes, I use 2, one for each side, as they load up and don't "flow" until cleaned.

As for help, get "Brightwork" by Whittman.

As I consider the canvas and paint to be "consumables", I don't worry too much about the finish, and usually stick to 4 coats total.

Dan
 
Epifanes is almost fool proof. touch of thinner and some flow extender produce excellent workability and keep the foam brush from dragging or squeaking and extend working time nicely.

 
  • Like
Reactions: MGC
Back
Top