Construction/Restoration questions....

[Dave Wermuth]

This canoe belongs to member Emory Clark and I am restoring it for him. 60102 as I recall. It's a 15' 50 #. It was his father's canoe and the build record shows it was sent to William Clark in 1920. In the last 94 years some things are forgotten, lost to time. the fiberglass was applied quite well unfortunately and I'm working at getting it off. There appears to be evidence of a restore prior to the 'glassing. Two questions:
1) anyone ever see the decks and inwales tapered in thickness at the stem? I think that this taper, which is at both ends, must be from a prior repair, maybe to shave off some rot? But it may have been to shave off weight at the factory? Any ideas?

2) What is going on with the space between the tip of the deck/inwale and the tip of the stem, or where the stem should be? there is about an inch of space that was filled with what may have been drywall mud, or glazing. Is it possible the deck was moved rearward because the inwales were rotted? As in shorten the inwales by cutting off the rot? Should I splice the inwales and move the deck forward to meet the stem? the stem will need a splice too. I am inclined to think that I'll need to splice the inwales and move the deck to meet the stem.

Also, the planking is showing staples on both ends and going into the stems that I assume were added when the canoe was 'glassed.

 

[Dave Osborn]

You are correct in all regards....
Looks like the decks were moved back.
I would scarf in new inwale tips to meet on top of the stem.....which looks like it needs new wood scarfed in as well.
The thin decks don't provide much area to screw the inwales to. I have in a couple of restorations added wood to the bottom side of the deck to give more leeway for accepting screws......
Surely someone will give you other opinions..... These repairs are what has worked for me in the past..
Paddles up!
Davey O.

 

[Dave Wermuth]

Thanks. Corroboration is a good thing. In addition to splicing I will be replacing ribs and a backside repair or two. Additional input welcome.....

 

[Fsbissell]

To Dave Wermuth: How about making new decks, since so much is gone, or is that against your rules? The W&C Canoe Book shows how to bend them. Or just carve them.
Hi there Dave Osborn, I have a 'cottage' in Minocqua, and I am finishing up a 1935 Old Town Yankee restoration! Small World.

 

[Kathryn Klos]

Fsbissell-- hi! Do you know about the Jag Lake event that happens each fall? Please jot it on your calendar (it's happening right around the corner from Minocqua). Sept. 4-8, 2014. MUCH fun!

Kathy

 

[pklonowski]

...and the mini-assembly at Spooner, Aug 15-16...

 

[Dave Osborn]

Hi fsbissel.... Stop by some time. I'm 15 miles north of hwy 70 west......just off of hwy 51.

Shouldn't need to bend decks for a 15' 50lber. They are pretty straight and small. Start thick, and creep up on a final product.
. If the originals are salvageable in anyway, I'd use them.

 

[chris pearson]

Older Fifty Pounders have more sheer, so it depends on whats left to determined this. I hate to admit it, Dave I think is spot on.

 

[Dave Wermuth]

" I hate to admit it, Dave I think is spot on" -Chris Pearson. I may get that quote framed.

the decks are actually sound, what's there. I can splice in what I need and relocate them to where they should be. Thanks for the input. Confirms my suspicions. I am getting near completion of resin removal. It's going to be a challenge to keep it under the 54#'s that it weighed when it showed up. It didn't have a keel or stem bands.

 

[shelldrake]

Dave,

When I finished restoring mine with # 12 canvas an Rollin's filler, it weighed 59 lbs. However, it has a keel, outside stems and stem bands. I also added two little carry thwarts just behind the decks.

Matt

 

[Dave Osborn]

As I recall, during many catalog years, the 15'er did weigh over 50 lbs....

 

[Dave Wermuth]

I think when they called it a 50 pounder they meant that it was 'in the 50's". Thanks for the input, I plan on using rope for the carry handles as they weigh nothing. A keel and stem bands will be fitted. I've been using a primer/sealer latex from Sherwin/Williams lately for filler lately and I expect it'll take about 3/4 gal. I may use the heavy duty Dacron from Gil as it is tough. I haven't decided yet. Emory uses his canoes vigorously.

 

[Benson Gray]

As I recall, during many catalog years, the 15'er did weigh over 50 lbs....

Page 12 of the 1904 catalog describes a "Light Canoe" model that was 15 feet long and weighed 48 pounds. The fifty pound model was introduced in the 1910 catalog with that as the listed weight. It gradually gained weight over the years (like many of the rest of us) and became the Trapper model by 2003 when it was listed in the catalog at 68 pounds. I once owned one from 1914 as shown at http://forums.wcha.org/showthread.php?3968 but the restored weight was 63 pounds according to my bathroom scale. It probably had much more paint and varnish after the restoration then when it originally left the factory.

Benson

 

[Dave Osborn]

Just about to finish a late 50's - early 60's Lightweight with #10 canvas. I'll weigh it soon.