Canoe Restoration

Romas

New Member
Hi all,

I have a canoe I would like to restore but not sure where to get started. I'm moderately handy but have never restored a canoe before -

The canoe was taking in water when I got it and seemed to have a couple of cracked ribs, the outside gunwales were rotted to varying degrees, the hardware was rusted. I have taken the canvas and outer gunwales off but I'm not sure where to go next. I've attached some photos - if anyone could provide some advice on how to get started or some good resources, that would much appreciated. Looking forward to getting this canoe back in the water.
 

Attachments

  • Canoe 1.jpg
    Canoe 1.jpg
    247.1 KB · Views: 88
  • Canoe 2.jpg
    Canoe 2.jpg
    164.3 KB · Views: 87
  • Canoe 3.jpg
    Canoe 3.jpg
    186.7 KB · Views: 73
  • Canoe 4.jpg
    Canoe 4.jpg
    142.1 KB · Views: 71
  • Canoe 5.jpg
    Canoe 5.jpg
    133.2 KB · Views: 71
  • Canoe 6.jpg
    Canoe 6.jpg
    219.6 KB · Views: 66
  • Canoe 7.jpg
    Canoe 7.jpg
    193.2 KB · Views: 93
Before getting started on woodwork repairs I good cleaning seems to be in order. Then a decision on if the canoe will need to be stripped or revarnished over the existing. I would think some TSP would clean it appropriately and a moderate bristle brush with some warm water. Stripping is generally considered the worse part of a restoration but where your canoe doesn't seem very old you might be able to varnish over the existing finish.

Zack
 
  • Like
Reactions: MGC
The WCHA store has a few books on the subject, that are well worth reading, understanding, and following:

This will get you started, and help identify specific issues, how to fix them, and the sequence of operations. And these forums will get you the rest of the way... ask questions, you will get answers!
 
Hi.... as you can imagine, there are quite a few steps to getting a canoe restored. The good news is that none of them are particularly difficult and all of them are well within the capabilities of any reasonably handy person.
As a starting place, you might want to consider buying at least one and possibly two books. This site has a store where you can get your own copies of the Wood and Canvas Canoe, the book many of us referred to years ago. https://www.woodencanoe.org/product-page/the-wood-canvas-canoe-a-complete-guide
You can also buy yourself a copy of This Old Canoe, a newer guide that may provide additional insight. https://www.woodencanoe.org/product-page/this-old-canoe-how-to-restore-your-wood-canvas-canoe
Materials can be ordered from a number of places. This Suppliers and Builders Guide, can be your guide. https://www.woodencanoe.org/builders-suppliers
You might notice the authors of one of the books are listed as suppliers. They sell the bits you will need. Tools, tacks, ribs, planking, canvas.....
It can be helpful to learn the process from someone else although many of us did it on our own. The WCHA may have a local chapter you can get help from. Check here:https://www.woodencanoe.org/chapters
If that were my canoe, I would be starting out by stripping the old varnish and then figuring out if the stems are good enough to hold tacks. Stripping is a bit of a process that will require stripper, time, TSP, possibly a bleach and sanding, lot's of sanding. A restoration includes many hours of sanding.
If the stems are punky or very split, you will need to make a decision about how to proceed. Your canoe looks pretty good, so you might get by with repairing the stems with some toothpicks and G-Flex epoxy. If the stems are bad, they are often patched (spliced) or replaced. It does not look like you need to do that. Some folks might bond a strip of fresh wood over the face of the stem so that everything comes out as new.
You will need to re-clench (tighten) all of the tacks in your hull, at least if you don't want them to bulge out of your fresh canvas later. While you do this and the stripping, you will figure out if there are other ribs that need to be repaired or replaced. A repair can (sometimes) be done by leaving the rib in the canoe and removing the planking from the outside to get access to the back of the rib. Once the back is exposed, you can patch the rib with a mortised piece of cedar that you G-Flex in place. Search for backside repair and you will find lots of discussion. The rib in your image looks like one that should be replaced...after you carefully pull the tacks, you can remove it and make a new one to fit into it's place. You will need cedar, tacks, a steamer and a few clamps to replace the ribs. To get a fit, you bend the steamed rib on the outside of the canoe two ribs (usually) down from where the rib needs to go. That two rib down thing will account for it needing to go inside the hull and also take the thickness of the planking into consideration. Once you have it formed, you can force it into place and tack it in. It's actually pretty easy. You can either buy a pre-shaped rib, or make your own. A decent table saw can build most of a canoe. Rip the thickness, cut the tapers and then round over the edges with a router.
You might want to replace some planking. If you do, steam (a wet rag and an iron) can help for the more challenging boards. Just keep in mind to allow at least three or four ribs of separation between joints...it's like laying block. You don't want the joints to line up.
You will probably treat the outside wood with something before you canvas. Some use thinned varnish. Others use tun oil. I use warm mix of boiled linseed oil, turpentine and mineral spirits. I always varnish the inside of the boat before I apply it so that the bleed through does not discolor the inside of the hull after you spent so much time getting it cleaned up.
You will deal with the seats, thwarts etc. . Canvasing is more daunting to consider than to actually do. Buy a treated canvas, make your stretchers, pull it tight and tack away. Once that canvas is on, you will fill and paint. You will be making outside rails. Once you have filled and painted you will fit those...
You get the idea. There are a lot of steps. The good thing is you have covered working space so you can take your time and do all of the necessary pontification.
There are many threads on this forum where folks have documented a restoration. Search around and you should find a great deal of information. Don't be shy. Ask for help if you need it. Some of the most experienced restorers and builders frequent this site and offer advice....
Do you know who built your canoe? From the images, it's hard to tell.
Mike
 
Thanks all for the replies - a lot to help me get started. MGC - I’m not sure on the origin, I got this from a family friend who passed away. He had it up in Maine in Kennebunkport so I assume it was built in that area. I now have it in New Orleans.
 
You came to the right place! Loads of super experienced and helpful folks on here. Please share photos etc. Look forward to seeing your efforts.
 
I had already picked up on the NOLA location of the canoe. There's plenty of water there. A canoe can come in really handy in hard to access places.
The connection to Kennebunk does not tell us much about the canoe, but it does prompt a caution. If the canoe was used in salt/brackish water you might need to worry about a thing called de-zincification. Brass canoe tacks will literally corrode away as the zinc is leached from the brass. Generally, you will see zinc "blooms" in the wood if that is happening. I did not notice that in your canoe, but you need to pay attention. Damaged tacks become brittle and will break off. It is not uncommon for a restorer to retack an entire canoe if the blooms are really bad and the tacks are badly damaged.
WRT the origin, if you post images of the decks, seats, thwarts, rib tops and inside stems, someone here will help you figure that out. Or, you might have luck doing it yourself. Take a look at the Wooden Canoe Museum website. There you will find the most comprehensive information available online about the many builders of these boats. Of course, local small builders as you might find in some areas will not be listed, but there is no better starting point. https://woodencanoemuseum.org/
Todds comment about coming to the right place. Spot on. In the time it took me to respond to your post, two extremely credible and experienced restorers also responded. And then Dan. There is no other place where you will get as much information as you can find here.
Once you have your books and you are noodling over the steps, use the search feature on this forum to dredge up dialogue, instruction and directions. A word of caution though, if you see someone trying to reinvent the way a canoe is assembled, be skeptical. No early builder made brackets or added blocks and structure to join the stems and decks. Most old canoes have lasted well over 100 years without these "improvements". In the words of that great one, Elmer Fudd, "be vewy, vewy, careful".
 
Thanks all! Just ordered a copy of This Old Canoe as well as all sorts of cleaners, strippers, brushes, sponges, and sanding gizmos. I do plan to use this canoe in brackish water so I'd like to get ahead of the brass corrosion if possible - are 316 stainless tacks manufactured / used at all? Or maybe bronze would be a good alternative?
 
No early builder made brackets or added blocks and structure to join the stems and decks.
You are talking about me Mike!
I did it (and posted here) and I'm glad I did it. Using a bracket let me use the original narrow, pointed deck and still have a strong attachment to the stem.
 
Romas - there are no stainless or bronze canoe tacks that I've ever heard of, only brass and copper. Cedar canvas canoes have long been used in brackish and salt water, and you can still do so. But as has been suggested, salt will corrode brass tacks (the most common fasteners used). You can and should rinse your canoe thoroughly with fresh water after use, but there will still be some residual salt. Don't take this the wrong way (it's not negative but just a fact) - your canoe doesn't appear to be a particularly rare or fine one. It looks like a utilitarian Canadian canoe, possibly Huron. Notice the planer marks in all the ribs and planking, for example. The point is, you can use it as you wish without fear of destroying a rare and/or very valuable historic canoe. That said, it's your canoe and you should make it just as beautiful and functional as you like, be proud of it, and use it as you see fit. Take care of it and it will last you a long time.
 
Mike gives good advice. I spent a semester as a Ragin Cagun in Lafayette. A well restored and cared for wood and canvas canoe plying the waters of the bayou would be a sight to see.
 
You are talking about me Mike!
I did it (and posted here) and I'm glad I did it. Using a bracket let me use the original narrow, pointed deck and still have a strong attachment to the stem.
Not directly or specifically, but possibly generally. As you can see, I am of the opinion that canoes as built were generally totally adequate for their purpose and also to last, presuming proper storage. I have never seen a canoe that required anything more than the typical single nail holding the stem in place. Once the decks are screwed in and planking is added, the form is set and the shape holds. After you build a few and restore a bunch, you have to identify that the structure is far more robust than you might think. As I am writing that, I am thinking about the time I dropped my Morris on a carry and other times when an alternative interpretation of draw hard right put us hard on a rock in pounding rapids. The strength of these boats is inherent in the flexibility and toughness of the overall shape. I personally have never seen a need to redesign those joints, and I always worry that a new restorer will stumble on someone's sharing of their modification and think that it is a necessary step. It is not.
I worked as an engineer. I worked with engineers. I totally understand NIH and when I was younger, I also thought that it was necessary for me to redesign just about anything I encountered. I eventually learned to pick my battles and spend my time on innovation instead of redesign. What I did/do redesign was what truly needed it. So for me, having worked on many dozens canoes built in the early 1900's, I am inclined to follow the builders method, whatever it may have been. I am 100% confident that those canoes I have worked on are good to go for another one hundred years, even with just one finishing nail or ring nail holding things in place. I am also certain that I made every effort to be period accurate in my work.
Having said all of that, it I learned to say (from Benson)" it's your canoe, you may decide how you want to restore it". But, I will always hope that you (figurative you, not literal you) do not "freestyle" on an old and rare boat.
Mike
 
Back
Top