building a model stripper

erbinsky

Canoeist/Builder
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Greetings all. I have built several 16 ft. cedarstrip canoes using a strongback( ladder frame) and equally spaced stations and was concidering building a small 3 or 4 foot model. Does anyone have any experience in this area as too how wide to cut the strips and how to lay them out? Do I need to build a tiny frame? staples or nails or possibly pins? Any help would be great....Jeff
 
I have built a couple from this company. They include a form with the kit and I used push pins to hold the strips in place while the glue dried. They recommend using the "Hot Shot" glues but I have not had much luck...very brittle. I use Titebond and it takes a little longer, but that's OK with me. Look under Static Models, then Apprentice Boats.

http://www.midwestproducts.com/index.asp

I also have used regular plans to make 1/25th scale models of stippers and all the info is there, molds, etc. I cut cedar at the bandsaw, 1/16" X 1/4" and produced a 24" stipper from the Canoe and Kayak 14' plans.

Have fun!

Ric Altfather
 
I made the 16" Peterborough model canoe by Bear Mountain Boats and it is as close to building one from "Canoe Craft" as it gets. Even down to the molds. If one builds a kit first and then a real one, it will be a great learning experience especially for understanding the stems. IMHO
 
Very wise words form Joe "Woodchuck" on building a model before beginning the real thing...gives you a little taste of what is to come!
 
Here's a pic of a model form for a 25" solo canoe...made the same as a full size one, just scaled down. Note the push pin holes to hold the strips.

Ric
 

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Thanks Ric , thats what I needed to know.I'm in the process of building a 16 ft. laker out of Gil Gilpatrick's book and I think I'll scale it down and try a model. Thanks everyone for your replies..Jeff.
 
am i the only person in the world that just can not figure out how to take a full size plan and "scale" it down to make a model for myself? i think from what sowem of you seid above,making the model before the full sized boat,,,is a good idea.it makes sense to me.
but scaling down from a full sized plan just does not click in my mind.

it seems ill have to buy small plans to make a model,,even though i have books and books of plans for full sized boats on the shelf.
just sharing my frustraion,,

roy
 
just can not figure out how to take a full size plan and "scale" it down to make a model for myself?

If you are working from full size patterns, just take them to a copy shop with a big enough copier and have them reduce them by a percentage to get to the scale you are working with.

If you are working from a table of offsets, pick a scale and use an architects rule to lay out your offsets, and essentially loft it to scale. If you pick 1-1/2" to the foot or 3" to the foot, then you can use a regular carpenter's rule - the former 1/8" equals 1" and the latter 1/4"=1"

What plans are trying to work from?
 
this means every single measurement

this means every single measurement i assume?

darn. not that i think i understand it anyhow. but every single tini size must be re-sized. what a pain in the neck.

do any of you know of a complete canoe model sized plan (not a kit) that is for free?

actually,even a dinghy would do. maybe after i did a few,,then if i enjoyed it,,then it would be time to invest in some nice plans for a nicely detailed model.

but for the first one,i think a dinghy or row boat might be more useful for a beginner like me.

so,,are there any usable free canoe model plans out there that i don't have to re-size myself??

thanx either way guys,

roy
 
I took the measurements for my stations and simply divided them by 5. The full size plans are laid out on a grid of 2 inch squares. If you divide 2 by 5 you get .4 in. The full size plans were for a 16 footer.... divided by 5 gave me a finished boat about 3ft. 4 in. or 3.2 ft. As far as the strips go I cut them about 1/4 wide by about 1/16 thick and used staple to hold them
 
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