A question about rib finish
- Thread starter BMC
- Start date
MGC
Scrapmaker
It's a legitimate question and one I'm sure we have all considered at some point or another.
I am not aware of anyone who varnishes the backside of a replacement rib, nor the planking beneath it during a restoration. In a new build, the entire hull is assembled without varnish. With both restoration and fresh build, the boat is varnished once it has been completed. This is the beauty of using cedar, red or white. Not only is it fairly light and easy to work/steam bend, it is also very rot resistant. That is why we used/use it for siding and roof shingles.
The only things I tend to varnish before I assemble them are the rails and the keel (if there is one). I also tend to finish outside stems where they are mated. Most of the rot you see on a canoe is in the rails, stems and decks. It can be argued that this is almost always due to poor storage/care and to a large extent, that is true.
In your position, I would make my ribs, steam and install them and then later varnish them along with the rest of the inside of the hull. I always apply a warm blend of BLO, turpentine and mineral spirits to the outside of the hull. I do not treat the inside that way. I use thinned varnish first followed by less thinned varnish until the final un-thinned coats.
I am not aware of anyone who varnishes the backside of a replacement rib, nor the planking beneath it during a restoration. In a new build, the entire hull is assembled without varnish. With both restoration and fresh build, the boat is varnished once it has been completed. This is the beauty of using cedar, red or white. Not only is it fairly light and easy to work/steam bend, it is also very rot resistant. That is why we used/use it for siding and roof shingles.
The only things I tend to varnish before I assemble them are the rails and the keel (if there is one). I also tend to finish outside stems where they are mated. Most of the rot you see on a canoe is in the rails, stems and decks. It can be argued that this is almost always due to poor storage/care and to a large extent, that is true.
In your position, I would make my ribs, steam and install them and then later varnish them along with the rest of the inside of the hull. I always apply a warm blend of BLO, turpentine and mineral spirits to the outside of the hull. I do not treat the inside that way. I use thinned varnish first followed by less thinned varnish until the final un-thinned coats.
chris pearson
Michigan Canoe Nut
Alex C does at Stewart River on new builds. Perhaps stops added weight from water.
MGC
Scrapmaker
Interesting. Shows to go you. What does he do. Steam, bend, remove, varnish, reinstall? Does he varnish the inside of the planking before tacking it to the ribs?
Canoes do get heavier when they get wet. I know my canoes are heavier a week in on a trip than they were at the start.a long carry towards the end of a trip can be a real buzz killer.
On a new build, you don't need to remove anything. Bend the ribs, then varnish on the form. Varnish the backside of the planking, then install.
Danny Sutherland would varnish the ribs for all-wood boats prior to steaming them. He claimed you could only use Captain's varnish to do this.
Danny Sutherland would varnish the ribs for all-wood boats prior to steaming them. He claimed you could only use Captain's varnish to do this.
MGC
Scrapmaker
Of course but I would never consider doing this on my form.... I suppose if it was a new form I might not feel that way, but I have always obsessed about keeping it original.
I may try steaming a varnished rib just for giggles. I think I have some Captains around although it's probably as hard as a rock.
