1927 Oldtown HW Restoration.

[Mud Bug]

Okay, you guys know what you're doing, and I don't, but when my dad and I recanvassed his Yankee back in the early '90's we didn't stretch it lengthwise with all the gizmos you're talking about. We just set the canoe upside down on saw horses and, starting in the middle, we each took a side and stretched the canvas by hand and arm, pulling against each other, tacking it and moving on, working towards the ends. We pulled lengthwise too to get all wrinkles out, but that was it. The filler shrunk everything just fine and's still fine today. What's with this super-stretching with trees and pullers and anchors? Aren't you putting unnecessary strain on the canvas? Is it possible you're over-engineering things?

I've done this once--once--and as a helper at that. That's it. Keep that in mind, Phil, so don't copy me without hearing more qualified advice. I'm asking, not suggesting.

 

[Dave Osborn]

Bug,
You may be right. There are a few in our contingent that hand stretch and apparently do well with it.
Personally, I’ve done a couple hundred or more with the upside down come along method. It’s how I was taught. As far as I know mechanically stretching was done in all the commercial builders shops.
I’ve never witnessed hand stretching, but I would think it would be rough on your hands and arms. Maybe a hand stretcher will chime in.
Gil? Dave?

 

[Phil K]

While it's interesting to know that hand stretching can be done, I'd rather avoid the unnecessary strain on my creaky tendons. Good old mechanical advantage is my friend.

 

[Greg Nolan]

Gil Cramer with Mike Darga at the 2014 Assembly stretching by hand:

http://www.wcha.org/forums/index.ph...he-amount-of-canvas-stretch.16161/#post-81860

 

[Phil K]

Today I stripped the old canvass, and found that (surprise!) it was in worse shape than I expected. I still had some doubts it was really needed, but am now glad I took the advice to do so.

There are a few existing planking repairs that I wasn't aware of, and a few places that would really benefit from some help. I am wondering if other than for Purity Of Essence there is any good reason not to use Western Red Cedar for planking repairs in places like the top corners that won't be visible on the finished boat? I have a ready supply of WRC, and am not sure about local sourcing for Eastern White Cedar.

 

[Phil K]

Progress report: plank repair completed.

I first attempted to fix a spot that had been almost punched through by some encounter with a sharp corner. That did not turn out well, so I ended up cutting out a section. The cedar I was using had a tight vertical grain, and did not want make the necessary curve. Even a well soaked piece split on me, and after two failed attempts I rummaged about for a more willing, flatter grained sample. Bonus discovery for the next person who strips the canvas.

There was also a tip off the port bow that got replaced, and a section by the stern paddler's position. I can see that all the planking stops 3/8-1/2" below the tops of the ribs, but ran this piece a bit higher so there was a bit more meat to work with. I couldn't see any reason that this slightly higher planking would cause problems down the line. Feel free to correct me if I'm missing something.

And a fair amount of this:

 

[MGC]

WRC can be harder to use. It tends to be somewhat brittle.
When you are trying to follow a hull with a patch, the piece can be difficult to pull to the ribs without splitting it. This is especially true if the board curves in multiple directions.
What work well for me is using steam to help soften the board. Position the piece, lay a wet cloth over it and then use a hot steam iron to help shape the board into position. I tend to predrill the holes where I plan to tack it, at least on one edge.
Without getting into bending moments, stresses and over analysis, keep in mind that making a smaller piece fit a very curvy part of the hull is more difficult than replacing a bigger piece.

 

[Benson Gray]

I couldn't see any reason that this slightly higher planking would cause problems down the line.

You showed a cross section of your outwale in response number three. This higher planking may may things more challenging when you put that outwale back on. Good luck,

Benson

 

[Phil K]

I've been busy with other things, and traveling , but keeping this slowly moving along. Seats and gunwales removed, interior now about 80% sanded for refinish. Everything looking good.

A few questions for the brain trust:

Stainless T-50 staples for canvassing- 1/4" or 5/16"?

And the eternal "Boat Soup" question.. I'll treat the outside at least once with some oil concoction, boiled Linseed based. That seems to have no downside. Good, bad, or indifferent opinions on oil treating the interior prior to varnish? It would obviously have to be a thin coat, something that will reliably harden, and be given plenty of drying time before varnishing over.

Thanks.

 

[MGC]

You have not stripped the original varnish from inside the hull. Instead, you have chosen to sand it. You should not need to re-seal the hull with anything other than several coats of thinned spar varnish. Use you oil concoction only on the outside of the hull.
I usually varnish the inside of the hull before I oil the outside. I don't like to have the oil seep through and discolor the wood on the inside of the boat.
It's not too late to change your mind about stripping it. You will get a far more consistent finish if you do.
If you do opt to strip it, you should still apply only thinned varnish on the inside.

 

[Dan Miller]

Stainless T-50 staples for canvassing- 1/4" or 5/16"?

What MGC said, and 9/16" stainless staples for the canvas along the sheer. I still prefer 3/8: copper tacks for the stems.