Stripping paint from the interior of a wood/canvas canoe
- Thread starter Dan Wegh
- Start date
There is no one single good answer to your question. Different paints/varnishes/shellacs, etc. are softened by different types of strippers. You are going to have to test several to see what lifts the paint on your canoe. Even if the first one worked pretty good, I'd still try several. Having said that, find Kwik marine stripper and test it, and recently I've had some success with citrustrip. Don't rush! Let the stripper do what it is supposed to do. Maybe coat it twice before trying to scrape. Lay saran wrap over to top to slow the evaporation of solvent from the stripper. After it's soft, get as much out as possible with a putty knife, etc., and go back over again. Sometimes I use acetone as a wash. None of these damage the wood. Work outdoors and don't stick your head inside the canoe for long! Your mileage could vary. Tom McCloud
Mark Adams
all wood nut
I use Jasco Super Premium paint and epoxy remover. It is methyl chloride based, but will lift just about any paint I have ever used it on. I get it at Home Depot. There is some other stuff I have started to use, but it is about 300 bucks for 5 gallons.
Kathryn Klos
squirrel whisperer
My experience has been that the stripper most likely to eat your brain will work best on paint. Some folks live close enough to a stripping-service to hire the job... and because good stripper is expensive (as Mark states above), it can be cheaper (with advantages to your brain) to hire the work done.
Kathy
Kathy
The methyl-chloride based strippers seem to be the most effective and covering with plastic or saran wrap and simply leaving overnight produces good results.
Just don't let the stripper lift the ribs out as well - you'll have nothing left but planks with a bazillion clench tacks sticking up out of them!
Just don't let the stripper lift the ribs out as well - you'll have nothing left but planks with a bazillion clench tacks sticking up out of them!
portagedog
Curious about Wooden Canoes
Dan,
I just stripped a recently acquired canoe using Citristrip, as was mentioned by McCloud. FWIW, I had only one layer of what appeared to be the original varnish and most of it came off with one generous application, a section at a time. Try a small bottle first and see if it does the job for you before investing in enough for the entire boat. I used a total of 2 qts. What I liked best was that it is non-toxic, has very little odor, no noxious fumes and cleans up with water. I was able to strip the canoe in the basement with nary a complaint from the better half. Instead of a putty knife, I was able to use a package of 3 plastic body filler (Bondo) spreaders available at most auto parts or auto paint stores. There are no sharp edges to gouge the wood, they are very flexible, and you can cut them to various sizes to fit between the rib, the gunnel slots, etc. This is just my experience and you may have better results with other products, just depends on the paint/varnish on your boat. I do highly recommend following up with a two part teak cleaner like Te-Ka Teak cleaner (or Snappy Teak-Nu) that others have mentioned else where to brighten the old wood. Good luck.
portage dog
I just stripped a recently acquired canoe using Citristrip, as was mentioned by McCloud. FWIW, I had only one layer of what appeared to be the original varnish and most of it came off with one generous application, a section at a time. Try a small bottle first and see if it does the job for you before investing in enough for the entire boat. I used a total of 2 qts. What I liked best was that it is non-toxic, has very little odor, no noxious fumes and cleans up with water. I was able to strip the canoe in the basement with nary a complaint from the better half. Instead of a putty knife, I was able to use a package of 3 plastic body filler (Bondo) spreaders available at most auto parts or auto paint stores. There are no sharp edges to gouge the wood, they are very flexible, and you can cut them to various sizes to fit between the rib, the gunnel slots, etc. This is just my experience and you may have better results with other products, just depends on the paint/varnish on your boat. I do highly recommend following up with a two part teak cleaner like Te-Ka Teak cleaner (or Snappy Teak-Nu) that others have mentioned else where to brighten the old wood. Good luck.
portage dog
Dave Wermuth
Who hid my paddle?
To ad: I've had easy jobs, but mostly tough ones. I have had to strip as many as four times and used up to 3 gallons. It's, in my opinion, one of the more challenging steps in the whole process of restoring a canoe. I do a two to three foot section at a time and follow directions on the can. You just have to bear down and get to it. Wear protective gear and keep a bucket of clean water handy for accidents. the stuff burns skin.
MGC
Scrapmaker
This post is about removing paint. Paint is a major pain and requires the nastiest most toxic/caustic remover that you can find if you hold any hope for success. The citrus based strippers will work fairly well on some varnishes but not so well (at all) on paint. Varnish comes off even more quickly with the evil chemicals.
I am really curious to learn about the $60/gallon stripper that Mark mentions......what is that and does it work better? I have a Gerrish with paint inside it that will surely be a challenge. I would be willing to spring for a more costly stripper if it is noticeably better.
I am really curious to learn about the $60/gallon stripper that Mark mentions......what is that and does it work better? I have a Gerrish with paint inside it that will surely be a challenge. I would be willing to spring for a more costly stripper if it is noticeably better.
Paul Miller
Canoe Nut
Here is the link to the product I use and Mark is referring to.
http://flostrip.com/index.php?page=...ion=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1
This is very good stuff and the price isn't too bad, the problem is the hazmat fee if you ship UPS.
I buy the stuff by the 55 gallon drum and it's shipped by a truck with no hazmat fee.
You could have them quote shipping to include the hazmat fee before you buy it.
A microscopic speck of this stuff on your skin will have you racing to the water bucket.
There is little waiting for this stuff to work.
I've posted these pics before, but here is my flow system. Pic two shows the finish bubbling up.
Paul
http://flostrip.com/index.php?page=...ion=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1
This is very good stuff and the price isn't too bad, the problem is the hazmat fee if you ship UPS.
I buy the stuff by the 55 gallon drum and it's shipped by a truck with no hazmat fee.
You could have them quote shipping to include the hazmat fee before you buy it.
A microscopic speck of this stuff on your skin will have you racing to the water bucket.
There is little waiting for this stuff to work.
I've posted these pics before, but here is my flow system. Pic two shows the finish bubbling up.
Paul
Attachments
MGC
Scrapmaker
Hijack
Flostrip offers a brush/roll-on version of that. The MSDS looks like a clone of the dip stripper that you use in your bath.
http://flostrip.com/index.php?page=...&category_id=2&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1
Have you tried it? It looks like a very good alternative for those of us that don't have your more elaborate setup.
Flostrip offers a brush/roll-on version of that. The MSDS looks like a clone of the dip stripper that you use in your bath.
http://flostrip.com/index.php?page=...&category_id=2&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1
Have you tried it? It looks like a very good alternative for those of us that don't have your more elaborate setup.
Varnish removal done the easy way. First mix TSP in a very strong solution of hot water 3lb to a half bucket of water. Spay it on using a preassure washer with a detergent pick up,let stand for a while. Scrub brush wetted down with solution ,preassure wash out sofened material.Next apply varnish remover ,liquide worked best with a preassure sprayer gun or syphen pick up, 3M medium pad and scrub with the grain. By the way do only the one side with the canoe on it's gunwal and wash out all of the residue. I had very little sanding after it dried and it took out a lot of the dark areas of an old Meramac 16 about 90 years old. When I repaint stuff I always use this method and works on paint but a little slower
Paul Miller
Canoe Nut
Hi MGC,
I have never tried any of their other products.
This liquid is very thin, almost like water, but I still use it with a brush to work small items or areas. This works so fast you don't have a problem with it running off, the varnish or paint bubbles up and holds the liquid from running.
You don't need a paste as it doesn't take long, no wrapping with plastic or any of that.
Paul
I have never tried any of their other products.
This liquid is very thin, almost like water, but I still use it with a brush to work small items or areas. This works so fast you don't have a problem with it running off, the varnish or paint bubbles up and holds the liquid from running.
You don't need a paste as it doesn't take long, no wrapping with plastic or any of that.
Paul
Treewater
Wooden Canoes are in the Blood
Stripping the inside hull
I will continue a good thread. I have this 1937 OT HW with sponsons. It must have had hard use for a while. At some point it was fiberglassed. The fiberglass is off and not a real problem. The inside I have worked on seven days. It appears it was varnished at the factory then at some point somone, likely when it was glassed, opted not to refinish the inside but rather paint over it with a brown paint. It has been very difficult to get off. the brown paint was top quality. As well, it must have had dents in the ribs when it was painted or mybe the paint just soaked in well. Either way, I used Stypeeze from Lowe's. I used a gallon of $30 stripper and a gallon of $25 stripper. I still cannot get all the paint off and have numerous spots. some spots I think just need more work but I am very tired of this. I dare not sand any deeper so the dents will just have to stay. Awful work. Four hours says Thurlow? I wish. Heres pictures. I've just sanded the whole thing.
I will continue a good thread. I have this 1937 OT HW with sponsons. It must have had hard use for a while. At some point it was fiberglassed. The fiberglass is off and not a real problem. The inside I have worked on seven days. It appears it was varnished at the factory then at some point somone, likely when it was glassed, opted not to refinish the inside but rather paint over it with a brown paint. It has been very difficult to get off. the brown paint was top quality. As well, it must have had dents in the ribs when it was painted or mybe the paint just soaked in well. Either way, I used Stypeeze from Lowe's. I used a gallon of $30 stripper and a gallon of $25 stripper. I still cannot get all the paint off and have numerous spots. some spots I think just need more work but I am very tired of this. I dare not sand any deeper so the dents will just have to stay. Awful work. Four hours says Thurlow? I wish. Heres pictures. I've just sanded the whole thing.
Attachments
1905Gerrish
Loves Old Maine canoes
One tip I can recommend is after stripping with putty knifes, use scotch brite pads to scrub the rest out where needed. Dip the pad right in the stripper and scrub away. They get clogged up with gunk easily but just throw it away. I buy boxes of the pads at home depot.
Greg Nolan
enthusiast
Tim --
In the third picture, it looks like at least some of the inside may have been rough sanded before the brown paint was applied, allowing the paint to soak into the sanding marks left in the soft cedar.
If you were to apply a stain, even a light-toned stain, to your stripped wood before revarnishing, it could lessen the visual impact of the remaining traces of brown paint. Old Town didn't stain the interior of its canoes (at least not usually), but other builders did -- notably Morris, who used a darkish, reddish stain -- so there is some precedent for staining a canoe interior.
Apropos of nothing, I have noticed that builders of other kinds of small wooden boats (dinghies, skiffs, rowboats, and small sail boats) very often paint the interiors of their boats even when new, rather than varnishing them, whereas canoe builders almost never do, although subsequent owners from time to time get out a can of paint rather than varnish when refinishing is called for..
I wonder why. Perhaps because the first canoes (birch barks) were not painted, and the bare wood look was just seen as the traditionally proper thing to do?
Greg
In the third picture, it looks like at least some of the inside may have been rough sanded before the brown paint was applied, allowing the paint to soak into the sanding marks left in the soft cedar.
If you were to apply a stain, even a light-toned stain, to your stripped wood before revarnishing, it could lessen the visual impact of the remaining traces of brown paint. Old Town didn't stain the interior of its canoes (at least not usually), but other builders did -- notably Morris, who used a darkish, reddish stain -- so there is some precedent for staining a canoe interior.
Apropos of nothing, I have noticed that builders of other kinds of small wooden boats (dinghies, skiffs, rowboats, and small sail boats) very often paint the interiors of their boats even when new, rather than varnishing them, whereas canoe builders almost never do, although subsequent owners from time to time get out a can of paint rather than varnish when refinishing is called for..
I wonder why. Perhaps because the first canoes (birch barks) were not painted, and the bare wood look was just seen as the traditionally proper thing to do?
Greg
Like I said in the tread that I sent about stripping ,TSP powder is the best to use.after paint stripper.Take very hot water and desolve at least 3 lbs to a pail.Mop on very wet and continue to keep it wet.Scrub down with a red 3M pad and little or no sanding will be needed. Also some of the miner dings will be raised.
Instead of using stain to help blend in the interior use a tonner in your varnish ,as it will make it blend better.
You can lightly preasure wash to help clean up after the TSP.watch so you don't damage the wood.
I used this on my very old Meramac and it cam out looking great with little on no sanding. Grover
Instead of using stain to help blend in the interior use a tonner in your varnish ,as it will make it blend better.
You can lightly preasure wash to help clean up after the TSP.watch so you don't damage the wood.
I used this on my very old Meramac and it cam out looking great with little on no sanding. Grover
Treewater
Wooden Canoes are in the Blood
Thanks folks. To Gerrish; that was a technique I forgot. I poured some strypeeze in a pan and used the stripping pads. It improved much. BTW, save a trip to the store. The plastic pads can be pressure washed and used dozens of times. it's not the cost but the trouble.
Greg, you are right again. Inspection of the hull shows marks that are too even and consistent to be just scuff marks. Someone went wild with an orbital sander some years ago and did a fair amount of gouging. I'd have to take off a lot more wood to get those out. They will stay as is. I will consider the stain idea or I may just leave it as is for the memories.
To griffing, I tried TSP and did not get the results I needed. I believe I failed to follow your directions vis-vie hot water and scrubbing. Next time.
On to the stem rebuild.
Greg, you are right again. Inspection of the hull shows marks that are too even and consistent to be just scuff marks. Someone went wild with an orbital sander some years ago and did a fair amount of gouging. I'd have to take off a lot more wood to get those out. They will stay as is. I will consider the stain idea or I may just leave it as is for the memories.
To griffing, I tried TSP and did not get the results I needed. I believe I failed to follow your directions vis-vie hot water and scrubbing. Next time.
On to the stem rebuild.
David Satter
Wooden Canoe Maniac
Hi Guys. I don't post much but, paint and varnish remover. www.franmar.com Soygel stripper it's a green soy bean product. I know what you think but yes this stuff really works, unlike the green products at hardware stores. No gloves no mask no smell, need to keep any brain cells I have left, and cleans up with water. I've been using it for years. doesn't dry out to fast. After scraping scrub with lots of maroon scotch brite pads. Then treat the whole interior with TE-KA wood cleaner really brightens up the old cedar. Dave
JClearwater
Wooden Canoes are in the Blood
David,
The Franmar soygel stripper is $65 a gallon not including shipping. How much is needed as opposed to the $30 per gallon brain eating stuff from HD or Lowes?
Thanks,
JCC
The Franmar soygel stripper is $65 a gallon not including shipping. How much is needed as opposed to the $30 per gallon brain eating stuff from HD or Lowes?
Thanks,
JCC
