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1914 ot if

Discussion in 'Wood and Canvas' started by ppride, Feb 3, 2011.

  1. ppride

    ppride Canoe Builder

    The 1970 Chestnut is hanging in the shop canvassed and drying for the next couple of months. I got down the 1914 OT IF 18' (Ideal Fishing) #32733 I bought at the 2009 assembly during the auction. It is in great shape with only 2 cracked ribs, stem, and inwale tips to be replaced, canvas, refinishing, and seats to be caned. Someone fiberglassed the canoe and thought scoring the hull would help adhesion of the glass. It must have been polyester resin as it comes off easily with a heat gun and scraper without getting into the wood. The question is, what to do with the gouges in the planking (see attached pictures). My ideas are, don't worry about them, or fill them with an epoxy fairing compound. Let me know what you think. Pete
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Dan Miller

    Dan Miller cranky canoeist Staff Member

    I'd be inclined to simply re-canvas with number 10 canvas - you probably won' see the gouges. I would be concerned that any filler used might pop loose under use, which would certainly telegraph through at best, and may even wear a hole through the canvas from the inside.
     
  3. bill w

    bill w Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes

    You might try some hot water and see if that help's. Like it works on a hammer "blosoom". Then as a final step before any finish is applied(linseed oil ect.) sand it. Hope this helps. Bill
     
  4. Dave Osborn

    Dave Osborn LIFE MEMBER

    I agree with Daniel in that #10 canvas will be more "forgiving" when trying to cover voids hammer blossoms, and the stray tack head.
    If weight is not a big concern, #8 canvas may bridge those gouges more successfully. Using the Ekofill filling process would void any weight gain by using the heavier canvas.
    I'd also try Bill's hot water application to swell them out as much as possible, then sand the hull, trying to fair out the worst of them.
     
  5. dtdcanoes

    dtdcanoes LOVES Wooden Canoes

    gauges

    You could cut a 10 " , No. 10 strip and clamp it tightly to both wales over the worse gauges and filler up. and let it cure, and you will have definitive proof one way or the other. Or you could borrow Rollin's saws-all and have at it. He can sell you some new planks too.

    I would bet that epoxy/cedar dust mud using a narrow putty knife would get just the right amount of material in the gauges and be there forever. if the wood is not terribly saturated with oil. You could do a trial on this approach as well. A careful sanding of the excess may not be needed if one is careful.
    Make sure that you attend to the tacks in the area before using the mud, though. Have fun, Dave D
     

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