When to attach keel?

[Howie]

It's only lately that I've been asked to provide a painted keel - I've used varnished keels in the past. In thinking about it seems to me that you could install a 'painted' keel either before or after the canoe body has been painted. So I thought I'd ask you guys. Anything wrong with attaching the keel directly to the mudded canvas - assuming you have adequate bedding compound? Or maybe the canoe should have at least one coat of paint under the keel? It would sure speed up the process as you wouldn't have worry about scratching the newly painted painted body while you're positioning and securing the keel while screwing it in.

 

[Craig Johnson]

I put the keel and outwales on after a couple coats of paint. It always seems to make a mess and is good to have a couple more coats of paint to seal everything up. If the gunwale has any gaps against the canvas I fill them with bedding compound also and then lap the paint onto the underside of it.

 

[samb]

I put the keel on before painting. I think the keel being there makes painting easier as it divides the boat in two: I paint down one side then the other not having to worry about the centre line drying out to much or having to repeatedly move round to the other side of the boat.

Sam

 

[Howie]

Good info. Thanks.

 

[Rod Tait (Orca Boats)]

I always put the keel on right after filling canvas. I like to water test the hull by putting water in to see where it comes out before going to adding paint. Sometimes water can seep out the smallest pin hole by finding its way through keel screw and running under keel to outside. This way I don't have to disturb the nice paint job with any added bedding compound. I then water test it again after adding stem band. If water can find its way in, it will.

 

[Howie]

Thanks everybody.

 

[Dave Wermuth]

I put mine on after the first coat of primer.

 

[David Satter]

Howie, I was just thinking of you. I just finished a Penn Yan auto canoe 10 footer. Very hard bending the ribs because of the tumblehome. also harder to canvas such a short canoe. Anyway I used your decals on the deck they look great.
I always put on the keel after the filler dries a week or two with lots of dolfinite compound under it. I paint down one side and up the other, gives me a break doing one side then the other. I'll send some photos when I can. Dave

 

[David Satter]

 

[Howie]

Nice Dave! Decal looks nice there too! Beautiful paint & varnish job. What paint / varnish did you use?
I was going to say that it's a Penn Yan Hunter, but then I did a Google & found you are correct - they made a 10' Auto Canoe, a 12 1/2' Fisherman, and a 15' Hunter. I didn't know they had different names. My experience was with their Hunter - a deceptively heavy canoe for the length. Bet yours is really nice. I'd be curious to learn how much it weighs. Had a 11' OT 50 Pounder once. Still have a 13'er. Cute canoes...
And nice job staining the new ribs to match the old. Do you remember the stain you used? And you stain in place after they're tacked in? I believe I use Minwax Dark or Special Walnut before steaming, then touch up with more stain after they're in place as needed. It's damn hard matching the colors well - very nice job.
Wish I had a heated garage!

 

[David Satter]

I didn't weigh it but it's very light. Interlux brightside and pettit 1015 captains varnish. I have never had a problem with either of those two products, always reliable. I always stain after ribs are in. I just mix and match oil stains Cabot or minwax. Yeah , it's a pain sometimes. Other great products, Epifanes and Kirby.