Stem Band Replacement on a Molded Veneer Canoe

[SouthernKevlar]

I'm finally getting around to replacing a broken stem band on my Allied Aviation Corporation molded mahogany canoe. I noticed that the original stem band shows no evidence of using any bedding compound or caulk under it, so I am assuming that it is not necessary with this type of construction. My plan in to remove the brass band, sand and varnish the hull (needed anyway), bend and drill the bands then attach the new bands without bedding.

Do any of you experienced band-benders have any advice on these plans? Any thoughts will be appreciated.

 

[Dave Osborn]

Use bedding

 

[SouthernKevlar]

Thanks Dave.
Just curious thuough, but should the concave stem band actually touch the mahogany (well, the varnish) at the edges or should the bedding fully support the stem band even under the edges of the concavity, floating the stem band on the bedding material?

 

[Dave Osborn]

I fully bed the concave stem band. It’s as tight to the wood as possible. Apply the bedding with a plan to wipe off excess.
The goal is to seal the band so that water does not get underneath. If water is introduced, it can promote rot and wicking into the screw holes.
I have seen some bands that are only bedded at the screw holes, but I don’t like the look of the potential gaps as well as an entry for water.
I like to use mahogany colored bedding. I think it looks better along the side of the band than the natural color.
Mahogany color is hard to find sometimes.

 

[Worth Gretter]

The bedding prevents leaks along the fasteners. You need it.

 

[SouthernKevlar]

I will be ordering the bedding compound along with the stem bands. Thanks to all for the info.

I like to use mahogany colored bedding. I think it looks better along the side of the band than the natural color.
Mahogany color is hard to find sometimes.

Dave, do you have any recommendations on where to find the mahogany colored compound? That should blend in nicely with the mahogany hull.

 

[Dave Osborn]

I don’t recall where I got the last couple of quarts of bedding. The internet is your friend.

 

[SouthernKevlar]

To maintain the originality of my Allied Aviation Corporation canoe, I am hoping to replace the stem bands with ones identical to the current (and probably original) bands. The existing bands are 1/2" wide oval, height being shallower than the width, with a flat back whereas most of the stem band material I see marketed is 3/8" wide with a concave back. I have located a supplier for the 1/2" stem band material.

My big question is: On a flat backed stem band, how heavily should I apply the bedding? Should a thin coat be applied and the band tightly joined to the canoe, a heavier coating applied letting the band stand proud from the hull with a visible layer of bedding showing under it or perhaps a heavier coating tightly joined, squeezing out the excess bedding compound and cleaning up the excess?

I know this may sound nit-picky but I would like do the job right. Thanks for any advice.

 

[Dave Osborn]

1/2” oval is nonexistent. A thin coat is fine. With any gaps, just push some bedding in. Wipe up excess with mineral spirits or thinner.
Another thought…
Depending on the wood on the stems, it may be possible to sand in a flat spot on the stems to accommodate the flat backed brass.

 

[SouthernKevlar]

I found the 1/2" Half Oval Brass at the WoodenBoat Store. Currently they only have it in 12 foot length (rolled), but I might need some in the future. I also briefly considered trying to braze or solder the old stem band back together, but the break is right at a screw hole and doesn't have much meat left to it.

Thanks for mentioning sanding a flat spot on the stem. I just went out and checked the stems and they are already flat. That adds to the probability the the canoe originally used the existing 1/2" flat backed oval stem bands. The stem had also been varnished prior to the attaching of the band, which let me to wonder about the use of (or lack of) bedding in the first place.

 

[ALCEDO ATTHIS]

cut a little of older, and after you can braze and drill an other hole in the new bar ...

 

[SouthernKevlar]

Thank you Alcedo. I thought of that too and may do that if I can find someone good at brazing. I am a woodworker, but have never worked much with metal.

 

[ALCEDO ATTHIS]

so you can also make an half and half with an unseen screw , from inside, and braze all later when you find someone able to do that

the frenchie , blacksmith retired