Steel gunnel screw removal

[Gil Cramer]

Any suggestions on removing steel gunnel screws? 1920 Carleton with spruce gunnels and plugged bolt holes. Screws look like #10 and likely 1 3/4". Original canvas has been cut away. Thanks for any help. Gil

 

[chris pearson]

Gil, where specifically is the problem? Screwhead purchase? Or screws not turning?
I heat the screw driver with a propane torch and it allows the blade to penetrate the junk filled slot beautifully. It also frees the stuck screw in the wood. If the slots are too rusted ya can’t get the driver in, I use a dremel cutting disc to clean out the slot. Good luck pal!

 

[John Sand]

I haven't removed screws from a canoe, but have on other wooden boats. If it's not important or possible to save the gunwales, split them away with a chisel and use vise grips to twist out the remains of the screws. Saving the original gunwales is harder, but may be possible. I've tried a variety of patented screw removal tools with limited success. I remove the bungs with a drill and scrape the rust and debris off the head with an old chisel. If there is enough of a slot left, clean it with a sharp triangle scraper blade. A properly sized screwdriver bit in a brace might turn the screw. If the screw won't turn, either twist off or drill off the head. The gunwale can be gently pried off of screws without heads. Some screws may have decayed to the point where the threads have no grip and they just turn in the hole. For this I use modified needle nose pliers. Bend the very tip inward toward the other to form a slight hook. That grabs the screw and wiggles it out. Good luck.

 

[Michael Grace]

I start by clearing slots, then maybe give a sharp rap from a hammer onto a screwdriver in the slot to break the bond between metal and wood. If I can't get the screw to move or if a head breaks off, I use screw extractors. Unscrew-ums work great on screws that are missing heads. They drill down in reverse tightly over the screw shaft and pull it out. For screws with heads, I use reverse-twist bits. First you must drill a hole into thread of the screw, then use the reverse-twist bit to pull out the screw. One more thing: parallel-tip screwdrivers are far better than common screwdrivers because the parallel-tip screwdriver's tip registers much better in the screw slot.

Great for clearing slots:

Unscrew-ums, available from several sources including tltools.com and Highland Woodworking:

For more info:

T & L Tools Unscrew-ums Screw Extractor - FineWoodworking

Unscrew-ums Screw Extractor

www.finewoodworking.com

Reverse-twist bit set:

Parallel-tip screwdrivers (game changer), available from Lee Valley:

 

[ALCEDO ATTHIS]

before the great cavalry with electric tools , you can try with a hammer and an "armed" screwdriver , the one who accept to be hammered
, dont' unscrew when you shock it , but screw more in the same time, one two tree and after you can unscrew , the wood and the rust are a few separated

 

[samb]

Like Alcedo says, try to tighten it a bit before you unscrew: doesn't always work but helps to loosen things up. I would also try an impact driver

https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-impact-driver-set-13-pieces/7257r?ref=SFAppShare

 

[Dave Osborn]

It only matters if you are keeping the gunwales. If the wales are going to be replaced, just split the wood with a chisel.
If you are keeping them, you may damage them enough when you remove the screws that you are going to replace them.
Otherwise, what Michael grace has posted gives you some options.
Also, like Sam mentioned, an impact driver can be your friend, but the slot must be very clean and sharp with a closely matched slotted driver. With the impact you may also need a buddy to hold an iron behind the gunwales to give support for the whack.
It’s one of the most un-fun thing in restoration work.

 

[ALCEDO ATTHIS]

Its the same thing with rusty bolts , you must crush the dust to have more place to unscrew with some bumps , it' better when you screw , because your problem : you can't unscrew

 

[cwf]

I had to use a home-built version of the unscrew-ums for the ones that resisted all attempts. Even then, some wouldn't come out, so had to be cut, the wood plugged and new holes made.

 

[Worth Gretter]

A properly sized screwdriver bit in a brace might turn the screw.

Excellent idea. I always tell people using a power drill with deck screws, lean hard on the drill and go easy on the trigger.
This is the same idea, apply a lot of pressure on the bit brace and turn it slowly.

 

[Gil Cramer]

Thanks for all the ideas!! I was looking for a silver bullet, but there ain't none. Chris, I tried heat, but it didn't help. Likely operator error-I am good at that. One rail has been removed by turning the canoe on its side on horses: cleaning the slots as well as possible, inserting the slotted screwdriver ground to the correct size, tapping the screwdriver with a hammer, turning clockwise, and then counterclockwise. with all the weight of my 145lb body could apply. Only one would not respond properly. A Dremel deepened that slot enough so it could be removed.

I don' recall (I used white lead filler for years so my brain could be fried} ever having this much trouble removing outwale screws. I thought of a brace and bit , but mine has right handed threads so it would simply loosen the bit. That is after likely 500 restorations( I never kept track, but it has been since "87 )

This is a very special canoe that has spent its entire life on Devils Lake. Michigan, and even though the family does not know it is very likely to spend the rest of its life at the same place, at the same cottage( every lake domicile is a cottage ,no matter the size).

Thanks again,
Gil,

 

[Michael Grace]

I have a special, fairly early EM White that is full of steel screws. I had the same experience as you, Gil, cleaning, rapping, forward and backward, and putting my weight behind the screwdriver with no luck. After that I took the tedious approach of getting them out using spiral fluted screw extractors. It takes time, but it's worth it to me.

 

[MGC]

I have had success using EZ outs. You pre-drill and then it's off to the races. You need to be somewhat careful using them. If you get too ambitious you might break them off inside the screw, and then you are screwed.
EZ outs are very hard. You will not be able to drill them out if they break.

 

[Gil Cramer]

Bit the bullet. Removed the other rail-slightly easier then the first.