New stem bands and screw hole spacing...

KAT

LOVES Wooden Canoes
I have my new, undrilled stem bands. I have searched and read all about installing them, the preferred method of bending before drilling, how to make a jig for drilling, use steel screws before brass,etc. What I haven't seen is how many holes, what distance apart, every 6", every 3"? Screw size as well, 3/4", 1"? Enough for purchase in the stem and allowing for the thickness of the band itself plus the one or two layers of canvas on the stem depending on placement...

It is a Huron, it had stem bands, the previous owner lost them, when I was fixing the boat I filled the existing holes with thickened epoxy. Canvas was installed with S/S staples, which may be an issue when pre-drilling holes for the screws, won't know til next weekend I suppose.

All help is appreciated.

Karin
 
Stem Band screws

Karin,
I put one on the deck then one just below the bend then even spaceing to whatever works out to around six inches. (less is better then more). I use #6, 3/4" long ovalhead sloted sil. bronze. Hope this helps.

Fred
 
Correction

Whoops..... not number 6, I meant number 4. I've been working with number 6 screws for the past few days. Sorry about that. Fred
 
Hi, and to add to Fred's comment: When I drill the stem bands I find that it goes better for me if I do it on the drill press and I drill from the backside. The drill will want to stay centered when it is in the hollow. If you try to drill from the front the bit will hunt all over. I use a fixture which is nothing more than a dado in a piece of wood and I have 6" marks on it so I can just slide it along as I drill. Keep the band level so you don't go off center on your exit hole.
 
You can hit the stem band with a center punch where you plan to drill each hole.
Keeps the drill bits from walking.
 
I use a 8 ft 2X4 with wood strips screwed on it so I can slide the stem band betweem them.I bolt it to my drillpress and use a lathe center drill, drill from the top of the band and you have the counter sink and hole all in one pass.
 
Thanks everyone, it will indeed help.

I don't own a drill press, may just go out and buy one to make it easier. Plenty of good ideas here for making a jig to get the holes right.
I'll find out next weekend how well I do.

Karin
 
I tried the two stage bit and the center punch. I wasn't very good at either. I still use the fixture like Gary, not as long and do it in two stages. For me it's more fool proof. I think if my fixture were tighter and my two stage bit supply better, I could do it right side up....
 
I made a board that has electrical wire staples in it to control and hold the band. I slide the band under the staples and center punch the top of the radius. I then drill a 3/32" or smaller pilot hole through the center punch. After that I use a #4 countersink bit to chamfer the hole.
No special jigs, etc. All sorta free hand. Works for me.
As far as spacing,.... about every 6 inches is good with holes at both ends as well. If there is a wooden outer stem, you must make the stem band to be sure that you aren't drilling screw holed where the stem mounting screws are. If I guess on those kind, invariably I put a hole where there is a stem screw!
Dave
 
All of the above. On the first one I needed to set up a few years back, I spent more time fretting about it then it took me to do and do correctly.
I did start on deck to get that secure. I used a punch and then made sure the drill bit was sharp. I used a steel starter screw which was slightly narrower then the finish screw.
Then I really handled the band at the point of the first bend over the top of the deck. I warmed it up with my hands and gently started to bend it. I don't know if warming it up worked but I bought two stem bands and neither of the broke. Don't forget the waterproof dope between the band and the canoe end.
 
It sounds like a bunch of you folks are drilling prior to bending and others are bending prior to drilling. So, it would work either way as long as one has patience during the procedure.
 
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