Sorry for the dumb question but....

[Easternrivers]

As I sit and think over the tasks involved to repair a canoe, I realize that some methods are not quite obvious or straight forward ie:
Installing the outer gunwales. On Chestnuts the general cross-section of the gunnel has a roughly 1/4X1/4" lip at the top that hides the top of the canvas and planking.
2 questions come to mind. is the canvas trapped under this lip or does it simply sit in the gap below the lip behind the gunnel? Secondly, for some reason, I imagined the placement of the screws to fasten the gunnel went thru this lip, but of course now I think that doesn't make sense as it would split the lip going in, so the screws must enter just below the lip pulling the gunnel into the top of the planking and canvas.
Am I on the right track?
As I said, maybe these things should be obvious, but I can see different ways for this to go, and most likely don't work.

 

[Larry Meyer]

Yes the top side on the gunnel is wider (the outwale is rabbeted) to hide the top of the planking plus canvas. The sheer strake (top most planking) has to be cut back so the outwale will fit level with the inwale .
The canvas is not trapped (held in place) by the outwale. The canvas is held in place when tacked or stapled to the planking. The canvas is tacked (or stapled) where planks meet the ribs and ribs are tacked to the inwales.
Screws holding the outwale on are centered (halfway between top and bottom) on the outwale and drilled thru ribs to the inwale. And yes a lot of fasteners get next to each other.

 

[Larry Meyer]

Just to be clear, “trapped” is a confusing word here. The edge of the canvas is covered over by the outwhale. The screws you drive through the outwale therefore go through the canvas and thus also fasten the canvas to the canoe. But after the tacks have fastened the canvas to the canoe.

 

[Easternrivers]

By trapped I guess I was wondering if the gunnel pressed against the canvas enough to clamp it to the ribs-planking beneath..
hard to describe, but I think I got it... also the canvas is trimmed quite close or even flush with the top of the planking correct?

 

[Larry Meyer]

The outwale is not installed until the canoe is canvased, the canvas filled and the filler dry (4-6 weeks). You just couldn’t stretch and secure the canvas ONLY by attaching the outwales.

Yes the canvas is trimmed to align with the top of the planking. But DON’T try to do an exact trim until the filler is dry. You can do a rough trim while canvassing just to get the excess out of your way.

 

[Easternrivers]

Yes, I knew that the canvas was attached and filled beforehand. I was just thinking of the excess under the gunnel. But there won't be any excess once the canvas is final trimmed to top of the planking.
Thanks

 

[Larry Meyer]

After the outwale is on and the canvas is ready to be painted, many folks “seal” the underside of the outwale (where the canvas goes underneath it) with the paint they are using for the hull.

 

[Easternrivers]

I suppose that helps keep the water from getting underneath the outwales. to some extent anyways.
I plan on fully varnishing the outwales (all surfaces) before installation.

 

[Larry Meyer]

They’re damn long things unattached. To save time, you might paint or shellac the hidden surfaces, then varnish them after they are attached while you are varnishing everything else. Shellac dries fast. A half hour. You can get 3-4 coats on quick.

 

[mccloud]

Most folks that I know leave the excess canvas hanging long thru the filling and painting process. Maybe even crudely sew the excess from inwale to inwale. This excess canvas provides some protection from overspray, drips and spills to the inwales and inside of the hull. The canvas pads the inwales while the boat sits on sawhorses. No need to be in a hurry to get the excess canvas off. Carefully! trim just before installing properly prepared outwales. Tom McCloud

 

[Easternrivers]

Will do.
Thanks