Shellac bottom troubleshooting

FlyingMoose

Big city & Back country
Hi wood-canvas hive mind,

Long time lurker, first time poster.

The tl;dr is this: I had what seemed like a lot of canvas damage from what seemed like a minor scrape with a rock, and I’m wondering if the culprit is my shellac bottom.

The long version:

I have a new-to-me 1982 18’ White Guide (originally built by Jerry Stelmok for Garrett and Alexandra Conover). According to the seller, it was recanvased ten years ago. Half-ribs. Shellac bottom (no paint below waterline). It’s heavy as hell, but a beautiful boat!

The other day, I took it out on a quick paddle on Belle Isle in Detroit, where I live, and I scraped against a submerged “rock” (chunk of concrete—this is Detroit, after all!). This was flatwater, and I wasn’t going particularly fast. I felt the scrape and heard the ugly sound of rock on canoe, but it seemed like nothing major. I figured I’d have some scratches on the shellac; no big deal—that’s what it’s there for, right?

Wrong. I started taking on water immediately and had half an inch or more along the length of the boat by the time I finished paddling half an hour later. Turns out, the “rock” had scraped through to the canvas weave, splitting it in four places. (See pictures.)

Patch time. No big deal. Done it a million times (though always with Ambroid, which I have no more of—we’ll see how Duco cement holds up). Half an hour of snipping and glueing later, and I’ve got some decently faired patches over the tears. I’ll shellac over those tomorrow. No harm done.

So why am I posting? What bothers me is how easily the tears happened. I’ve been paddling wood-canvas boats since I was twelve; I’ve banged up a lot of boats on a lot of rocks, but nothing at all about this impact felt like anything more than a scratch to me until I started taking on water. I was genuinely shocked to see the damage once I got the boat to shore. The “rock” had gone through a pretty thick shellac crust and the filler (traditional, oil-silica stuff) to the weave of the canvas in four different spots. I haven’t taken this boat on a river trip yet, and now I worry that I shouldn’t, if it’s going to damage that easily. I do a lot of my trips in Ontario, where rocks are pretty hard to avoid entirely.

SO: is this a shellac bottom thing? I’ve slapped coats of shellac over paint for river trips before, but this is my first canoe with an all-shellac bottom. I thought the whole point of the shellac bottom was to be “slippery” over rocks, but this seemed more like “crumbly.” Has anyone else had this problem? (FYI: I refreshed the bottom with three coats of Zinsser shellac in November.)

Your collective wisdom is appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2958.jpeg
    IMG_2958.jpeg
    472.1 KB · Views: 48
  • IMG_2957.jpeg
    IMG_2957.jpeg
    601 KB · Views: 41
  • IMG_2956.jpeg
    IMG_2956.jpeg
    547.3 KB · Views: 44
  • IMG_2955.jpeg
    IMG_2955.jpeg
    367.9 KB · Views: 48
Cinder blocks are much worse than rocks. I live in the Chicago area, not unlike Detroit, so I know. Urban rivers are why we have tupperware boats.

Oh, and don't run over any rebar, either. I think it's much worse...
 
Appears to be a filler problem by the looks of the photos. A tear is a tear but it looks like filler has not bonded to/with the canvas properly. I don't think the alcohol in the shellac would cause issue with the filler.

As far as the shellac under the waterline, slippery over rock is what I was told from Jerry and I painted one canoe out in this fashion. Additional coats are often required as it doesn't last. Looking back for historical references to shellac under the waterline on canoes I came up empty. Lots of past chats about shellac on the bottomside, on the forums.
 
Last edited:
Cinder blocks are much worse than rocks. I live in the Chicago area, not unlike Detroit, so I know. Urban rivers are why we have tupperware boats.

Oh, and don't run over any rebar, either. I think it's much worse...

Yeah, I worried about rebar, but when I checked out the offending block, it was just concrete… with a bunch of shellac and filler smeared on it!

Belle Isle is usually pretty easy on boats, but there are a few “rocky” shores of old concrete!
 
From my experience, shellac really is more "slippery". That does not prevent dings and gouges from happening. When you run over something sharp, it will cut through as it has done on your boat.
Your hull looks pretty checked. I've not had that happen to mine. I probably do not have the shellac laid on quite that thickly. What I notice is that the shellac does require renewal. It seems to "vaporize" after a while.
On your boat, I'd be inclined to sand it down a bit before applying more.
And, for the best advice about this topic, give Jerry or Rollin a call. They have more river experience with the shellacked bottom than most of the rest of us do.
 
I feel your pain. I have a 20' White built by Jerry in 98 that has a shellack bottom. It is possible that the concrete was very sharp, manmade obstacles always scare me more than natural rocks as far as damaging the bottom goes. You may also have something going on with the filler as mentioned above. Maybe that's why you have all that checking in the hull. I have similar crack but mine are faint and hard to see unless you look close.

The bottom line for shellac for me is that I wish all my w/c boats had it. It might be a little softer than paint but the positives outweigh the negatives, IMO.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MGC
the Shellac looks fine, filler looks fine and the canvas looks fine. Sharp edges or corners of cinder blocks will tear the canvas no matter what you have on the filler and paint. In fact sharp anything is not good for the canvas! Shellac is great for skidding over rounded river rocks, pulling up on gravel beaches, sliding over a beaver dam; Cinder blocks,not so much!
Your shellac has some age on it and is already quite thick but appears in good shape. Before sanding and applying more shellac I would give it a good rub down with some denatured alcohol. The alcohol will "melt" the top layer of shellac and fill in the cracking, just a bit.
 
Thanks, everyone! I'll be avoiding those urban "rocks" like the plague from now on. Meantime, I won't worry too much about it, as long as my patches hold!
 
Back
Top