Sanding between ribs;

[Rob Stevens]

Chris Pearson aka Canoe Man Art LLC
shared this innovation for sanding between ribs; https://www.facebook.com/share/v/svt1s7ktxLxAc4gn/

 

[MGC]

A love for sanding is what attracted me to this hobby.....NOT!

 

[Dan Miller]

Sanding stars.

 

[Maxtoon]

This is an innovative idea...BUT....keep in mind most canoe planking is about 5/32" thick, and often thinner after fairing the outside and through decades of use, wear and tear. Aggressive paper on a multi-tool can cut very quickly. Even with careful use, you can remove 1/16" of material and start to leave valleys in the planking between the ribs. Put a straight edge across the planking when you pull a few ribs for replacement and you will often see this wear pattern. Be careful.

 

[MGC]

I've sanded one heck of a lot of canoes and even a Chris Craft Sportster (never again). Try as I might, I have never done damage sanding. I have used just about every sanding implement invented and even done something very similar to what Chris shared. The key is to stay away from really course paper and go with the grain when you can. Orbital is evil.
I think it is possible to do far more damage to the wood with a scrub brush. When you TSP and TeekNu, the wood is wet and soft and easily damaged.

 

[chris pearson]

This tool cuts but not too much, just be mindful of what you are doing and you WONT sand too much! It’s perfect because you can run the tool across the grain because the back and forth motion will go with the grain the whole time. I don’t always sand between the ribs initially but there was no other option in this case. Build up a few coats of varnish allows you to sand across the grain I get that. I’ve restored canoes for 40 years and just sharing what I’ve learned, most of the time the hard way. Use it or don’t, I don’t care.

 

[JClearwater]

I made one of Chris's tools this morning. It works GREAT - an answer to prayer! If I wasn't already happily married and if it wasn't so weird I would take a knee and propose to the thing. Chris if you are at Assembly next summer the first couple rounds are on me. Thank you for sharing your idea.
Jim C.

 

[chris pearson]

Jim, I can taste the adult beverage already! Glad it worked!

 

[Sandon or Sandy]

I will be doing this with several sizes as I have some with half ribs. Thank you Chris and Rob for sharing.

 

[dtdcanoes]

I can see the appeal of the Chris machine but. The need seems to be caused by not thoroughly getting all the varnish and other stuff off between the ribs and/or not using the Snappy Teak or similar product with care after stripping. I have never had to sand or TSP after the strip and renew process. I have always used a strong stripper and strong brushing when ready , doing the whole canoe , then wash it out with a small 11 PSI power washer with an adjustable spray tip hooked up to my hot water line in the garage as far as 75 feet away. This was immediately followed by the Snappy product process in three foot sections with careful use of the two brushes provided and same power wash. The wide open power tip gets everything off , under the gunnels the decks, the sides and tips of the ribs, everything.
Yes , the power washer can be aggressive but if you can't adjust a simple tip and step back or get a little closer when you need to, like you know dancing a good tango, , you shouldn't use it. I tried without the power on my first boat, never again. You need to use saw horses with the canvas sling for easy moving the canoe up the sling to drain as you spray to rinse. A three hour process and ready to go. If you have a hog this is the time to load her up, wet and ready to submit. Maybe a little 320 sanding here and there to remove some fuzz and ready for the raw linseed. Yup, another McGreevy thing. TMI I know.
Dave