Rushton Navahoe

samb

LOVES Wooden Canoes
Work on my Navahoe won’t be starting for a while but I’m already planning and thinking stuff through. Others thoughts and opinions are welcome.

At present it has two thwarts. One original at the stern, and another (much later retrofitted) just behind the centre in the ideal place for kneeling against when paddling solo. There was at sometime an original thwart in the centre of the boat as evidenced by the remaining bolts.

I need to be able to carry and car top the boat so will make up a removable carry thwart. This will need to have access to the middle of the boat, so the centre thwart won’t be going back and I'll keep a kneeling thwart off-centre.

The boat looks to me to be slightly mis-shapen forward of centre as if the current replacement thwart is pinching in a bit and the rails are spreading elsewhere in revenge. I’m thinking I can swap the slightly stern ways thwart with a slightly forward thwart. This would even up the rail shape and support the rails more evenly along their length getting rid of the unsupported section between the bow seat and present kneeling thwart. Purists might not like it as it would mean I’ll have to paddle it backwards - but what’s not to like about a Rushton trapezoid seat?

The Navahoe has the ‘B’ grade thin outer rails and caps, but they may need replacing depending on how well they come off. How would I bend the timber to get the shape of the sheer? I’d be using oak as they are at present. Steaming them would mean bending the 1” part of a piece 1”x ¼”. Is that possible? The caps are in 3 separate lengths and I’ll definitely replace them as the joins are not good, but the bend across the thick section is far less on these pieces. These outer rails and caps are held with copper nails.

I’m wondering if “we reduced costs here and there, a few cents in each place, at the same time leaving the canoe just as durable” and “using low priced parts wherever they answer the purpose” from the catalogue meant piecing up the rails and caps and fastening with nails rather than screws?

Can someone give me approximate dimensions for the ‘Rushton’ stamped pad eyes that I’ve seen on Indian girl decks? I won’t find a proper one but with time will hopefully find or make something similar.

All input welcome (but might not be used)
Thanks
Sam
 
The Navahoe has the ‘B’ grade thin outer rails and caps, but they may need replacing depending on how well they come off. How would I bend the timber to get the shape of the sheer? I’d be using oak as they are at present. Steaming them would mean bending the 1” part of a piece 1”x ¼”. Is that possible? The caps are in 3 separate lengths and I’ll definitely replace them as the joins are not good, but the bend across the thick section is far less on these pieces. These outer rails and caps are held with copper nails.

I’m wondering if “we reduced costs here and there, a few cents in each place, at the same time leaving the canoe just as durable” and “using low priced parts wherever they answer the purpose” from the catalogue meant piecing up the rails and caps and fastening with nails rather than screws?

Sam

My guess is that the Rushton factory bent the outer wales in larger widths, then resawed them into 1/4" thicknesses. This would make sense because bending a bit that is higher than wide results in twisting of the workpiece. Since they were building many canoes, they could bend the rails for six canoes out of a timber 3" wide. If it were me, I'd bend the rails out of 1" stock and resaw as well. Might be more wasteful, but you'll have more likelyhood of a successful bend.

Regarding the lower cost, installing the rails in three pieces might be a result of this, but all most canoes with cap rails like this were nailed on.
 
Wow, Nick, that was wonderful! Felt like I was out there with you. The Rushton is beautiful, as is Femme Fatale, and both are so nice to see gliding through the water and under the overhanging trees. Thanks for the treat!
 
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