Rotti123's Chestnut restore main thread. (lots of photos)

Rotti123

Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes
At least I think it's a Chestnut. A fellow member suggested it might be.
I plan on posting many photos and asking a lot of questions as I attempt to get this canoe in shape. I thought it would be best to keep it all in one thread.

This is what it looked like when I bought it.
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Removing the canvas. The canvas was very wet inside.
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The wood seems very solid and smooth on the outside. It feels a little flaky on the inside. Because of all the cracked and peeling varnish I suppose.
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I'm not sure how much of the planking I will have to replace. The first row near the gunnels feels soft and will need to be replace for sure. The rest feels solid other than some cracks and a couple of holes. The ribs are solid from end to end.
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Four cracked ribs.
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This is I think the worst part.....
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Something must have crushed the end.
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More pictures and lots of questions to follow...
 
As you consider replacing planking, you might think about breaking up the sections where the newer planking all ends in a straight line along one rib. The rule of thumb is 3x3. end planks three ribs apart from each other, three planks apart. The current arrangement of the replacement planking is putting a lot of faith in the strength of a single rib.
 
I'd bet a cold Saranac that its a later E M White Guide. Looks 18 + feet to me? Later because the rib thickness isnt tapered, they thinned them out as the approached the gunwales, earlier on. They also bevel lapped the planking(do some of the older planks look beveled) perhaps that was a feature earlier as well. The decks look correct as well.

-Chris
 
saranac bet

Chris, you're on. But could we make it a case?:D
 

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Hi Chris

I think you may have to buy somebody a Saranac something or other. I'm guessing Canadian, Chestnut as thought. I have an original 60's Chestnut in the barn with the same deck. I'd bet a Tim Horton's that the gunnel screws are phillips head. those are great photos and even tell a story of years gone by and some one's hard work. Today we pretty much take for granted that we don't let several adjoining planks end on the same rib. Because now 'we have the internet on computers'. (to paraphrase Homer Simpson)

:-]
 
Plus, I forgot

the thwarts are the same as the Chestnut in my barn. And if you look at the original planking you can see some fairing marks that look to have been made with a rasp or something. That is also on the Chestnut in the barn.
 
paint gun

Chris, rather than beer can I ask you about the gun you're using in your booth in the other thread? looks fancy shmancy and anodized etc - I'm still using the old binks gun for the odd thing i spray these days, but very much want to get an hvlp gun - do you have any suggestions for a good performing, moderately priced unit, or any pitfalls to avoid?
 
Andre,
To be honest, I paint my models at work, where I'm an industrial modelmaker(auto interiors). Anyhow, I learned alot from guys that have finishing backgrounds and I am not "the" expert. The gun we paint with is a Devilbiss gravity feed gun, big coin!!. We also use smaller gravity feed guns but this gun is so nice, I use it for most everything. The theory is that you spray more paint onto your work and less atomizes in the air. We use a number 15 nozzle for paint. Also, an HVLP gun for spraying primers is used, with a larger nozzle. I would say that you could get away with most any gun as long as its a gravity feed. They do spray nice and can be dialed in perfect. I also think they are more forgiving for those of us that arent strictly spraying for a living. I'm sure there are those that will argue my choice here and I think its opinion. Although I think most are going gravity feed nowadays. I still prefer to brush paint and varnish on full sized canoes, it goes on thicker and less hazardous. I also brush varnish on the models as well. I hope this helps you.
-Chris:)
P.S.- Heres a couple photos of past projects. One is a model we made for this years Detroit Autoshow. Its all one of a kind modelwork. Fun to do but its no canoe!!! The boat and trailer is a 1957 Crosby glass/wood runabout on a Tee Nee trailer and a Merc 400 outboard. I restored all of it. I found the trailer in a farmers field and bought the boat for $125.00.
 

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MikeCav said:
As you consider replacing planking, you might think about breaking up the sections where the newer planking all ends in a straight line along one rib. The rule of thumb is 3x3. end planks three ribs apart from each other, three planks apart. The current arrangement of the replacement planking is putting a lot of faith in the strength of a single rib.

Yes I can see how it would be much better to stagger the plank ends. I will definately do that. Thanks.
 
Dave Wermuth said:
I think you may have to buy somebody a Saranac something or other. I'm guessing Canadian, Chestnut as thought. I have an original 60's Chestnut in the barn with the same deck. I'd bet a Tim Horton's that the gunnel screws are phillips head. those are great photos and even tell a story of years gone by and some one's hard work. Today we pretty much take for granted that we don't let several adjoining planks end on the same rib. Because now 'we have the internet on computers'. (to paraphrase Homer Simpson)

:-]


The gunnel screws are Robertsons. Are they original? not sure. They do look old enough to be original. The very last ones on each end are a nut and bolt with a flat head on the bolt end. The canoe is 17 feet long. Tomorrow I will take more measurements and post the results. Is there any chance it's a Miller? They are made very close to where I live.
 
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Thanks Chris,
was contemplating buying a cheaper gun but didnt want to waste my money - the binks is great but as you know only about 40% of the paint actually hits the project and you mist everything in a 15' radius.
Your boat project looks fantastic, I can see it all in my minds eye when you found it - would make my wife weep openly - but she now understands the end result after all these years;) You've got to post a "before" pic!
Now that we're done hijacking the thread, Rotti you've got what looks to be a chestunut for sure, to determine what model take some measurements and have a look on Dragonfly Canoe's website. It'll be a great boat when its done,still lots of life left in it.
 
From measuring today I get 17' long, 34 inches wide and 13 inches deep.

The closest matches for a Chestnut would be a (1967) Cronje cruiser. Which one member already suggested it probably is. Or a (1967) Crocket guide special.
 
I removed the varnish, or most of it and gave the canoe a bath of deck cleaner to brighten things up. The next thing that I would like to do is repair the inner rails and the front and rear stems. I'm hoping that I can just add some new wood to the existing rails and replace whats bad. As for the stems I'm thinking of trying to save them with some dry rot repair type liquid and wood epoxy. The stems are all there just soft and split close to the deck.

Varnish off
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Cleaned and dry
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Rotti,

Thanks for posting and answerig my question. :)

I'm also thinking Chestnut BTW.

I've got a 18' Guide's Special coming this weekend, (I hope) that looks a lot like yours, long, lean, and red. :)

The differences are the 18 vs 17 ft and the close ribs on the GS.

Keep the pics coming.

Dan
 
Thanks Dave. Do you know where I could have one of the seats re-caned? The one that is still on the canoe is fine, the other I removed and the canning is starting to come appart.
 
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