Rotten tacks advise needed

[Longpaddle]

Rotten tacks: advice needed

The tacks are no good (see post below on oxidized tacks) after stripping the varnish from the inside and removing the canvas I have determined that the tacks are to far gone, either the head pops off (flakes off) or they break at the bend of the clinch. Not much meat left on the tacks. I am afraid if I left the old tacks in and retacked the old tacks could loose their heads and work through the canvas.

I am thinking that the best course of action would be to remove the planking one piece at a time replace and re tack. There doesn't seem to be a way to remove the tacks other than to remove the planking. The clinched part of the tack will remain imbedded in the inside of the rib, I am thinking I should counter sink these pieces of tack back into the rib and cover them with a drop of epoxy to prevent them from working through the varnish.

Overall canoe is not in bad shape.

18' Otca

Repairs

If it didn't have the tack problem only 2 pieces of planking on the bottom and planking around the stems. No broken ribs

2 stems
2 decks
inwhales and outwhales
canvas
varnish
paint
seats

Thanks
Longpaddle

 

[Jim Okkema]

Here's an idea for what it's worth. Re-tack and clinch without removing the plank then drive the headless tacks through to the inside with a nail set. Once you get a bit of tack showing you can grab it with a nipper.
There will be some tearout as the old clinch leaves the rib, but it seems a lot easier than replanking the whole boat.
________
Yamaha SR500

 

[davelanthier]

I'm thinking you could re-clinch with a new tack right along side the old tack. This would hold the old one in place and no damage would be caused to ribs or planking. Might be worth a try.

 

[Rollin Thurlow]

There shoudn't be any probelm with pulling a group fo tacks in a certain area and then add new tacks, clinch and move on to the next area. There shouldn't be any need to completly remove the planking. It wouldn't hurt to do it that way and its a great way to sand the interior of the planking but it could be more work that you really need to do. When pulling the old tacks, if the tip is breaks off on the inside, its never caused a probem that I have seen. Its just the loose heads that cause problems.
Rollin

 

[Longpaddle]

I am a cabinet maker by trade. I am having a hard time not redoing the whole thing to make it "perfect". The tacks won't pull at all, the head just disintegrates. I am worried about the stem of the tack (between the head and the clinch working it's way out through the new canvas.

 

[robert]

Hey Long Paddle:


This may seem a bit backwards, however, why don’t you try clinching new tacks first, the board should suck in enough that you can nip off the old tack heads and still have enough shaft showing to knock the old tack back through to remove from the inside with a pair of pliers.

However, I would take Rollin’s warning very seriously, lose tack heads are big trouble. A loose tack head is probably the best way to create a very noticeable rise in your canvas, plus they are a pain in the arse to knock down and paint away. I also have a feeling they have to potential to weaken the canvas in a serious way. Can you tell I learned this the hard way??


Cheers;
Robert

 

[Rollin Thurlow]

If the head is disintergrating as you try to pull the tack out and if any part of the clinch part of the tack is still being effective, I would not worry about leaving the headless tack in the wood. With the clinch in place the headless tack will never work its way out far enough be above the surface of the planking.
Rollin