I recently aquired a 1960 W&C canoe built in the ADK's in need of some restoration. The planking and ribs are all in great condition as the owner built it and took care of it impeccably. I have already pulled and prepped the outwhales for finish still need to do the inners, canvas has been removed and planking is in great shape with only one split plank which I think is ok to leave. I plan to rebuild almost everything else to customize. I was originally going to prep and glass the canoe to match the one I already have but decide with the age of the canoe that canvas would be the better option. I have never canvased a canoe, what is the best way to go about it.
Restoring a 1960's W&C
- Thread starter 33 Canuck
- Start date
Kathryn Klos
squirrel whisperer
Others here who have canvassed a lot of canoes can answer your specific questions as you work on your canoe, but the best start is to read Stelmok and Thurlow's "The Wood and Canvas Canoe", which is available in the WCHA store and on Amazon, eBay, libraries, etc. The video "Building the Atkinson Traveler", available through Northwoods Canoe Company, is helpful for those who learn better by watching. YouTube has canoe-construction videos too.
As I said, post questions as you go along, and pictures too... we like watching canoes come back to life and end up on the water.
As I said, post questions as you go along, and pictures too... we like watching canoes come back to life and end up on the water.
Dave Wermuth
Who hid my paddle?
Canas is easy
Hi, Canvassing is alot easier than fiberglassing. check out the youtube and books that you can. Basically, the canvas is stretched lengthwise, upside down, rightside up or sideways, it matters not. Just stretch it lengthwise by whatever means available. then using stainless steel staples fasten at every rib top starting in the middle. Fasten to a few ribs on one side then the other. the Staple goes through the canvas, through the planking, into the rib and maybe even into the inwale if the staple is long enough.
staple length = 7/16" or 3/8". As you near the ends you may have to pull some tacks and readjust; that's normal. The ends are fastened to the stem face and overlapped and with bedding compound to assure a water tight joint. Staples go into the stems better if they are shorter as the stem is hardwood.
I supervised construction of a canoe last summer. Built by our church men's group. It turned out well. We video taped dozens of hours of the process and editted down to about 40 minutes. The canvassing part is a pretty good explanation. The dvd can be had for a $15. donation to the church. Let me know if you think you might be interested in the dvd. Apologies for the shameless plug.
Regards, Dave.
Hi, Canvassing is alot easier than fiberglassing. check out the youtube and books that you can. Basically, the canvas is stretched lengthwise, upside down, rightside up or sideways, it matters not. Just stretch it lengthwise by whatever means available. then using stainless steel staples fasten at every rib top starting in the middle. Fasten to a few ribs on one side then the other. the Staple goes through the canvas, through the planking, into the rib and maybe even into the inwale if the staple is long enough.
staple length = 7/16" or 3/8". As you near the ends you may have to pull some tacks and readjust; that's normal. The ends are fastened to the stem face and overlapped and with bedding compound to assure a water tight joint. Staples go into the stems better if they are shorter as the stem is hardwood.
I supervised construction of a canoe last summer. Built by our church men's group. It turned out well. We video taped dozens of hours of the process and editted down to about 40 minutes. The canvassing part is a pretty good explanation. The dvd can be had for a $15. donation to the church. Let me know if you think you might be interested in the dvd. Apologies for the shameless plug.
Regards, Dave.
shelldrake
LOVES Wooden Canoes
Staples better than tacks?
Dave Wermuth
Who hid my paddle?
Yes
Staples are much better than tacks. they go in quick and easy with an electric or manual gun. Stainless or Monel. Regular steel rusts and are therefore, not recommended. I use two staples per rib. Stainless is better than monel because you can hammer stainless in if it did not go in flush to begin with, like on the stem. Monel just flattens out. Sometimes when canvasing, the canvas needs to be readjusted and pulling staples is easy.
I wonder how many people are using tacks?
In my youth, I was working in an upholstery shop and spitting tacks was still being used. My tack hammer was magneteized on the skinny end and the tacks were iron. I would spit the tack out head first onto the skinny part of the hammer. then tap it into the work very near to but not through my thumb. Hopefully.
I do not know, but suspect that only strictly historically correct restorations would necessitate the use of tacks.
Gil Cramer canvases canoes each spring at the Quiet Water Symposium using only a manual staple gun and two sawhorses. And they are perfect.
Staples are much better than tacks. they go in quick and easy with an electric or manual gun. Stainless or Monel. Regular steel rusts and are therefore, not recommended. I use two staples per rib. Stainless is better than monel because you can hammer stainless in if it did not go in flush to begin with, like on the stem. Monel just flattens out. Sometimes when canvasing, the canvas needs to be readjusted and pulling staples is easy.
I wonder how many people are using tacks?
In my youth, I was working in an upholstery shop and spitting tacks was still being used. My tack hammer was magneteized on the skinny end and the tacks were iron. I would spit the tack out head first onto the skinny part of the hammer. then tap it into the work very near to but not through my thumb. Hopefully.
I do not know, but suspect that only strictly historically correct restorations would necessitate the use of tacks.
Gil Cramer canvases canoes each spring at the Quiet Water Symposium using only a manual staple gun and two sawhorses. And they are perfect.
Dan Lindberg
Ex Wood Hoarder
I don't know if staples are better then tacks or not, but I use them,
like Dave said, 2 to a rib, I just use my usual hand staple gun, (Swingline).
I do however use tacks on the stems, as I think it's easier to find room for tacks then staples. Usually I pull the canvas and put down a staple or two, and then go back with tacks to finish the job.
Dan
like Dave said, 2 to a rib, I just use my usual hand staple gun, (Swingline).
I do however use tacks on the stems, as I think it's easier to find room for tacks then staples. Usually I pull the canvas and put down a staple or two, and then go back with tacks to finish the job.
Dan
Dave Wermuth
Who hid my paddle?
Free extra advice
As you prepare to canvas, check and double check that your hull is very very fair and no tack heads sticking up or plank edges standing proud, etc. YOu'll be glad you did.
As you prepare to canvas, check and double check that your hull is very very fair and no tack heads sticking up or plank edges standing proud, etc. YOu'll be glad you did.
